How often are you pushing shadows in post?

6 years 5 months ago #551853 by Miss Polly
Lately I've been using this technique in Lightroom where in development mode, you slide highlights all the way down to the left and shadows all the way to the right, then adjust white and black slider to make that DR pop.

Have any of you tried this? 

Here's example of what I'm talking about:




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6 years 5 months ago #551951 by garyrhook
Generally, I will not do this for people. Landscape, architecture, objects, yes. Depends upon the light. I will tame highlights for people/events/outdoor stuff a lot, and bring shadows up depending upon the light that I had. But not 100%, no.


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6 years 5 months ago #551968 by John Landolfi
Since you don't post any photos, there's no way of understanding what popping the DR might look like. Would you give some examples?


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6 years 5 months ago #552061 by garyrhook

John Landolfi wrote: Since you don't post any photos, there's no way of understanding what popping the DR might look like. Would you give some examples?


Serge Ramelli uses this approach on his landscape work. Watch this video , at 3:30 to see an example. (This video also has a clever trick for the lamp posts, highly recommended at 10:30).


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6 years 5 months ago #552097 by Shadowfixer1
I used this technique a lot at one time. I'm finding it is really more camera specific on it's effectiveness. The Olympus E-M10 files react differently from the files from my Olympus E-M1. I find I use the highlight slider in almost every image. I general use the shadow slider a little less. I bring the pop back with Pro Contrast in the Nik collection. 
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6 years 5 months ago #552227 by EOS_Fan
Just for landscapes and cityscapes.


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6 years 5 months ago #552234 by rdubreuil
For me it depends on the image and what detail I want to bring out or subdue.  


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6 years 5 months ago #552349 by KCook



Looks nutz to me.

Kelly

Canon 50D, Olympus PL2
kellycook.zenfolio.com/

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6 years 5 months ago #552475 by garyrhook

KCook wrote: Looks nutz to me.


With all due respect, Kelly, have you tried this technique? Or watched the video I reference above?

We talk all the time about taming and pulling detail out of highlights, and pulling detail out of shadows. That's all this is doing, and it's extremely useful in some cases. I also find that a somewhat tempered approach works in even more situations.

It's just dodging and burning fully across a zone or two, if you want to get Ansel about it.


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6 years 5 months ago #552550 by neal1977
I use this all the time myself.  If you on a Mac after you have moved the hightlight and blacks, hold down the "Option" button and hold while you adjust whites and blacks.  You want to move the slider till you start seeing colors peaking.  


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6 years 5 months ago #552624 by Carry
Will this risk over sharpening the photos when exporting from LR that already sharpens?  


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6 years 5 months ago #552641 by KCook

garyrhook wrote:

KCook wrote: Looks nutz to me.


With all due respect, Kelly, have you tried this technique? Or watched the video I reference above?

We talk all the time about taming and pulling detail out of highlights, and pulling detail out of shadows. That's all this is doing, and it's extremely useful in some cases. I also find that a somewhat tempered approach works in even more situations.

It's just dodging and burning fully across a zone or two, if you want to get Ansel about it.

Nope and Nope.  When I need drastic adjustments I go to the Tone Curve tool.

Kelly

Canon 50D, Olympus PL2
kellycook.zenfolio.com/

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6 years 5 months ago #552731 by garyrhook

Carry wrote: Will this risk over sharpening the photos when exporting from LR that already sharpens?  


I've noticed no discernible affect in that area.

N.B. "discernible" should be spelled with an "a".  :angry:


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6 years 4 months ago #556809 by Justin Time
I often use this technique, as other said mostly in landscape or cityscapes. Not always, each image has to be analysed on its own. But most images containing sky during the day have a large dynamic range and this is a good way to reduce it.
A lot of other users prefer using curve which can achieve the same results, but I don't feel very comfortable with the Curve tool


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6 years 4 months ago #557004 by Sawyer
+1 it works.   Yeah first glass when you see the extreme highlights and shadows bars pulled all the way out, you have to keep in mind that things are balanced out with the whites and blacks bar below.  

Canon 5D Mark II | Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM | Canon 35L | Sigma 85 1.4 | Helios 44M-6 58mm(M42) | Zeiss 50mm 1.4 (C/Y) | Canon 135L | (2) 430EX II
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