3 Must Have Filters that will make any Photographers Life Easier!

9 years 5 months ago - 9 years 4 months ago #269998 by PhotographyTalk
B+W Circular Polarizer Filter

Circular polarizing filters are made for all cameras with beam splitters in the light paths of their TTL exposure meter and with autofocus lenses. Circular polarization has the same pictorial effect as linear polarization, but allows for proper exposure metering and/or autofocus distance settings.

Käsemann polarizing foils are neutral in color, have a higher efficiency than conventional polarizing foils, and are cemented between high-grade plano-parallel optical glass, using a special cementing technique that resists delamination in humid climates. The resulting sandwich is then precision-polished again to achieve highly accurate plano-parallel surfaces. Discriminating photographers regard the B+W Käsemann Polarizer as the very best polarizer on the market. They are well suited for applications that require the highest possible imaging quality, especially with high-speed telephoto lenses and apochromatic lenses.

B+W Polarizers increase color saturation and reduce reflections. The filter factor varies according to how the filter is positioned in relation to the sun. Exposure compensation is about two f-stops.
Why Use a Circular Polarizer?

Modern DSLR cameras have a beam-splitting prism that sends part of the incoming light to the meter and part to the viewfinder. The effect is that the light entering the meter is partially polarized by the beam-splitter. A linear polarizer placed on the lens of such a system will act as a second polarizer and block light to the meter by a degree dependent on the angle between the prism and the polarizer on the lens. The result is incorrect exposure/aperture values from the meter. That's why you need a circular polarizer with such cameras. The circular polarizer circumvents this problem by adding of a 1/4-wave retarder, or delay foil. This ensures that the linearly polarized light is changed into a rotation that appears unpolarized to the meter, resulting in proper exposure/aperture readings.
See B+W Circular Polarizer Filter HERE





Photo Credit: Sudhanshu Grover "sudhs"
Macknac Island, MI. Afternoon 3:30 pm. ISO 200, f/4, 1/1000, 15mm with handheld Canon 15mm Fisheye lens mounted on Canon 5D Mk II

Nikon D600  |  Nikon D7100  |  Nikon D800  |  Nikon D5100  |  Nikon D5200
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B+W 77mm Neutral Density Glass Filter

B+W Neutral Density Filters attenuate the light by 1, 2, 3, 6, or 10 f-stops . This is beneficial to achieve the correct exposure when the brightness of the subject is still too high for the fastest shutter speed and the smallest aperture, or for that "cotton candy" look to streams and waterfalls.

ND.3 = 1 stop compensation. See HERE
ND.6 = 2 stops compensation. See HERE
ND.9 = 3 stops compensation. See HERE
ND1.8 = 6 stops compensation. See HERE
ND3.0 = 10 stops compensation. See HERE




Photo Credit: Paul O "hermit"
No filter (left), B&W 10 stop filter (right). Note how much warmer(yellow orange) the sand appears. Nikon 17-35mmf2.8 on a D3s, at 17mm (B&W stacked with a Hoya uv-0 filter) 1/250 at f16, iso 100 (left) 25sec at f22 iso 100 (right)

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Lee Filter Graduated Neutral Density Filter

Lee 0.3 Graduated Neutral Density Filter. See HERE
Lee 0.6 Graduated Neutral Density Filter. See HERE
Lee 0.9 Graduated Neutral Density Filter. See HERE

Compatible with both digital and film photography

Whatever format you shoot, ND Grads help cameras record scenes more like we see them – with a broad tonal range that's lost if not captured in the moment.
Precise creative control

There is a place in landscape photography for both hard and soft grads. Which one you decide to use will depend mainly on the subject matter of your image.

As a general rule, a hard grad would be used for images containing a horizon, or any hard transition between the sky and the foreground - even with jagged or mountainous horizons, the exposure can be controlled far easier with a hard grad.

Soft grads perform best in woodland, mist, or interiors. Anywhere where there is no definite transition between sky and foreground, a soft grad will gently balance exposure across the image.
Ultimate flexibility

ND Grads can be stacked together, or with other filters, so you can respond to almost any lighting situation.




Recommended Cleaning Supplies:


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The following user(s) said Thank You: chasrich, GerardW, Pilotshark

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9 years 5 months ago #270019 by Screamin Scott
Yep, these are the 3 most needed filters that can't really be duplicated easily in post. That said, be careful with which filter brand you buy. All manufacturers make several lines or grades of filters. The better ones cost more. That said, cost isn't always a determining factor....Here is a link to some tests of CPL filters. Note there are several B&W filters listed. Note also that there are some other brands that scored well that are not as expensive. Be leery of "brand" name filters on eBay from China as they can possibly be fakes....The site also has reviews of other filters as well (like UV)...search the site & you will find lots of good info...

Scott Ditzel Photography

www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/

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9 years 5 months ago #270024 by chasrich
Good info... I have these filters but need to remember to take them out of the bag more often. :nunu:

“Amateurs worry about equipment, professionals worry about money, masters worry about light, I just make pictures… ” ~ Vernon Trent

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9 years 4 months ago #271799 by Doug
Maybe one more "must have" depending on how much infrared your digital allows through to the sensor... The IR contaminates colors, difficult to impossible to "fix" in post. The UV/IR Cut filter is most important on a Leica M8, but useful on many others.


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