Determining flash settings in manual mode?

When you have your flash off camera and shooting manual, how do you determine what power setting on your flash will give you correct exposure? There has to be a easier way then moving it one power setting on flash till the photo looks like it has enough exposure?

Pick up a Sekonic light meter

Thank you. So if you don't have a light meter, how do you get correct exposure determined?

Spending a little time with a good book on flash is a good idea here but here's a short article to get you started . Here is another .

Guide number divided by distance to subject equals f/# for "normal" exposure.

You can find the guide number for your flash in the instructions or on the manufacturer's website. It is usually listed for ISO 100 in meters & feet.

When calculating stops remember that doubling or halving ISO is 1 stop, but doubling or halving distance or f/# is 2 stops. Flash power may be adjustable in 1, 1/2, or 1/3rd stop increments.

Example: If your GN is 110, and the flash is 10' from the subject, then f/11 should be a good place to start.

Do some personal testing. You may want to modify the manufacturer's GN a bit to suit your real world shooting experiences or to adjust for flash mods you typically use.

I used to tape a chart listing common distances and f/stops I used with the appropriate power setting on the back of my flash until I got it memorized. I've been buying the same power flashes for so long that I haven't had to do that in a while.

That's the old school method taught by Zach, Bryan and at stobist.com. However, once you use something other than full power, bounce the flash or add a light "modifier" (ex. a softbox or an umbrella) you can throw it out the window.

Most flashes will have an AUTO mode (pre-TTL) that will adjust the flash output for you (if the sensor can see the subject).

If not, you will have to experiment to find the right settings (or buy a flash meter).

The key to using ONE LIGHT is to understand that you are actually using TWO. Balancing the flash with the ambient is what makes a good flash exposure.

Matthew

Note: Radio Poppers and new model Pocket Wizards allow you use your flash off camera in TTL mode (which controls the flash exposure for you). It's worth learning.

Henry Peach wrote: Guide number divided by distance to subject equals f/# for "normal" exposure.

You can find the guide number for your flash in the instructions or on the manufacturer's website. It is usually listed for ISO 100 in meters & feet.

When calculating stops remember that doubling or halving ISO is 1 stop, but doubling or halving distance or f/# is 2 stops. Flash power may be adjustable in 1, 1/2, or 1/3rd stop increments.

Example: If your GN is 110, and the flash is 10' from the subject, then f/11 should be a good place to start.

Do some personal testing. You may want to modify the manufacturer's GN a bit to suit your real world shooting experiences or to adjust for flash mods you typically use.

I used to tape a chart listing common distances and f/stops I used with the appropriate power setting on the back of my flash until I got it memorized. I've been buying the same power flashes for so long that I haven't had to do that in a while.

This is really useful information to me, I'm going to spend some time over the weekend trying to understand this. Thank you!

MLKstudios wrote: That's the old school method taught by Zach, Bryan and at stobist.com. However, once you tilt or add a light "modifier" (ex. a softbox or an umbrella) you can throw it out the window.

Most flashes will have an AUTO mode (pre-TTL) that will adjust the flash output for you (if the sensor can see the subject).

If not, you will have to experiment to find the right settings (or buy a flash meter).

The key to using ONE LIGHT is to understand that you are actually using TWO. Balancing the flash with the ambient is what makes a good flash exposure.

Matthew

Note: Radio Poppers and new model Pocket Wizards allow you use your flash off camera in TTL mode (which controls the flash exposure for you). It's worth learning.

Thank you also. I'm specifically looking to stick with manual, so old school as you call it is what I'm looking to learn. I was told that anyone can use flash in TTL mode, understanding how to make light work for you in complete manual mode is a art on it's own. Master that and your photography skills will reflect that. So I've been told.

That's what THEY tell you. THEY are wrong. And they've built an industry behind it. You NEED Zach's ONE LIGHT DVD's for $300 each.

I cover Manual mode as well, but TTL can do what we used to struggle to do and make it easy.

It's a technology that has been improved for over four decades now, and is why your fancy flash costs so much.

Nikon's CLS (Creative Lighting System) is the most advanced technology to come to photography, other than the shift to digital capture. It lets you run a photo studio, all by yourself, from behind the camera.

So I think I have the guide number and distance formula down. Now how do you determine the power the flash should be set at? Example 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/2, 1/1??

Thank you!!

Here's what you need to know to shoot in Manual flash mode:

Other than the flash power setting (typically 1/1 to 1/128) it's the flash-to-subject distance that matters most.

Close in, use a small aperture. Far away, use a large aperture.

The shutter speed needs to be at sync speed or below (unless you go into High Speed or Focal Plane flash sync, which I don't recommend -- yet) and controls the ambient light.

Combing the aperture setting with the ISO and shutter speed work the same as a normal (non-flash) picture.

Now you don't need his DVD's.

eta Focal Plane (High Speed) sync only works off camera with those fancy TTL triggers.

MLKstudios wrote: That's what THEY tell you. THEY are wrong. And they've built an industry behind it. You NEED Zach's ONE LIGHT DVD's for $300 each.

I cover Manual mode as well, but TTL can do what we used to struggle to do and make it easy.

It's a technology that has been improved for over four decades now, and is why your fancy flash costs so much.

Nikon's CLS (Creative Lighting System) is the most advanced technology to come to photography, other than the shift to digital capture. It lets you run a photo studio, all by yourself, from behind the camera.

I appreciate your help but your answering the question to what suits your needs. I know all about TTL and it's advancements. That isn't what I want to learn right now. Another reason to learn manual mode is so that I can go do larger strobes that may not work with TTL and are full manual control only. If my understanding is only TTL then I will have no idea how to accurately fire a full manual strobe.

MLKstudios wrote: Here's what you need to know to shoot in Manual flash mode:

Other than the flash power setting (typically 1/1 to 1/128) it's the flash-to-subject distance that matters most.

Close in, use a small aperture. Far away, use a large aperture.

The shutter speed needs to be at sync speed or below (unless you go into High Speed or Focal Plane flash sync, which I don't recommend -- yet) and controls the ambient light.

Combing the aperture setting with the ISO and shutter speed work the same as a normal (non-flash) picture.

Now you don't need his DVD's.

Thank you So am I to understand that the power of the flash in manual is completely up to me and not some mathematical equation?

Yes, exactly! You can use flash to overpower the sun, blend in with the ambient light, or use it as a "kiss" of light for fill.

It takes a bit of practice, but knowing what setting controls what, will get you mastering Manual flash quickly.

Photography isn't that hard, really.



It's the ability to pre-visualize the results and control the outcome is what makes one a pro. Though a "happy accident" is always welcome too.

So what is the guide number of a flash any way? Why are they different from flash to flash?