Determining flash settings in manual mode?
A medium powered flash has a GN of around 100 feet (at ISO 100). The SB-900 and 580EX-II are closer to 150. A low powered flash is rated around 50-70.
Note that zooming the flash head changes the GN too. So it gets really complicated when using modern equipment.
Ex. for the SB-700. Guide Number rated at 28 (in meters), or 92 (in feet), at ISO 100 at normal 35mm FX setting.
In practice that would be the flash head at full power pointed straight on, and for example you are 16 feet away, and using ISO 100 (and the 35mm FX zoom setting), you'd divide 92 by 16 to get the f/stop (5.75). Any tilt, other ISO, modifier and etc. means you would need to recalculate some impossible factors.
Studio strobes are rated in watts per second. The modifiers used (including reflectors, umbrellas, softboxes, snoots and etc.) have a great affect on their power. A flash meter helps.
Lighting is about learning to SEE and find good light. If you have to work in bad light (ex. a wedding) then you need to know what to add (or subtract) to make the available light look good. That's when flash is a necessity, and not an option.
Matthew L Kees
MLK Studios Photography School
www.MLKstudios.com
[email protected]
"Every artist, was once an amateur"
Would save you from a flashy looking blowout.
Matthew L Kees
MLK Studios Photography School
www.MLKstudios.com
[email protected]
"Every artist, was once an amateur"
Matthew L Kees
MLK Studios Photography School
www.MLKstudios.com
[email protected]
"Every artist, was once an amateur"
MLKstudios wrote: ...impossible factors.
Once again I'm glad I learned all this before the internet so I never had anyone to tell me this stuff was impossible.
I encourage everyone to practice a bit. You will find that flash power is adjusted in plain old stops, 1/2 stops, or 1/3rd stops, just like everything else. It's quite easy to calculate if you understand what a stop is. You will find that a particular light mod, if used in a consistent manner, tends to reduce the flash power by the same amount every time. As does adjusting the focal length zoom head on the flash. With some experience you will even become fairly accurate at estimating the effects of bounce distance, and bounce surface tone and texture. You may not be able to get it perfect on the first try every time, but with practice you will learn to make a close estimate. At first it will seem complicated, but the more often you do it the sooner it will seem like old hat. Just practice. No expensive DVDs or online courses necessary.
Henry Peach wrote:
MLKstudios wrote: ...impossible factors.
Once again I'm glad I learned all this before the internet so I never had anyone to tell me this stuff was impossible.
I encourage everyone to practice a bit. You will find that flash power is adjusted in plain old stops, 1/2 stops, or 1/3rd stops, just like everything else. It's quite easy to calculate if you understand what a stop is. You will find that a particular light mod, if used in a consistent manner, tends to reduce the flash power by the same amount every time. As does adjusting the focal length zoom head on the flash. With some experience you will even become fairly accurate at estimating the effects of bounce distance, and bounce surface tone and texture. You may not be able to get it perfect on the first try every time, but with practice you will learn to make a close estimate. At first it will seem complicated, but the more often you do it the sooner it will seem like old hat. Just practice. No expensive DVDs or online courses necessary.
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