Would you convert your camera to monochrome?

9 years 10 months ago #382918 by NickSano
I actually prefer B&W photos, and just came across company that converts D800's to monochrome. www.maxmax.com/nikon_d800.htm  

This would be a big commitment, but I would like to know how is this conversion different from what can be achieved from Photoshop?  


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9 years 10 months ago #382919 by Joves
My question is why would you want to do that? When you can just as easily make better B&W in post. Either way you have to do post work if you are shooting RAW. In Jpeg you can shoot in B&W already, so my advice is to try shooting in B&W Mode in the camera settings first. This will give you an idea of what you would get. You can get better B&W from post processing than leaving it to the camera. IMHO


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9 years 10 months ago #382929 by NickSano
Well that's what I'm trying to figure out here.  Is there a difference?   


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9 years 10 months ago #382932 by Joves
Yeah there is a difference. One way you cripple your camera to shooting B&W only. The other way you have a choice of shooting color, and deciding which format the image looks best in. I would rather have all the versatility myself, and to change it later if it suited me.


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9 years 10 months ago #382944 by Hassner
In film days we used colour filters to get different b&w tonal values.

For landscapes we used mostly orange and red. It would darken blue sky and make the clouds stand out.
Green would wake the plants lighter and give a weird semi ultraviolet feel.

For portraits we used yellow or even orange to lighten the skin.

Your single colour digital image can be processed to b&w in many colour filter options.

In Photoshop, go to Image > Adjustments > Channel Mixer.
A new window will open up. Click on the block in the bottom left that says Monochrome.
Your photo will change to b&w. You will see the red 40%, green 40% blue 20% channels.
Play with those combinations so that the total % will always be 100%, eg red 80%, green 20%, blue 0%
Try it and tell us if it swayed you from limping your camera.


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9 years 10 months ago #382967 by Stealthy Ninja
This exists:


There's people out there who will pay a LOT more for a monochrome only camera because it gives more tonal value? dynamic range? not sure what it does, but people want the best of the best in black and white, then they'll pay.

People convert their cameras to infrared, that's exactly why I bought my 1DsIII, my friend was going to do an IR conversation, I had to save it. I understand a monochromatic conversation a lot more.
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9 years 10 months ago #383077 by Allen D
Would be cool that you can turn on and off that function, but once you go there, you are THERE right?  No going back?


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9 years 10 months ago #383097 by gdbrekke
What Joves and Hassner said...

Shoot RAW and then use Lightroom, Photoshop or Aperture to convert to B&W/Monochrome.

In Lightroom (and maybe Aperture too) you retain all the color data when you convert to B&W and are still able to adjust individual colors - along with most other adjustments like contrast, shadow, highlights, etc. - as if you were using filters to shoot monochrome.

Cheers,
Gregg
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9 years 10 months ago #383167 by Superman
I wouldn't have any problems doing this on an older camera.  But not something like a D800.  

Nikon D90 & D40 18-55mm, 55-200mm, 35mm, 50mm, 105mm, SB600
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9 years 10 months ago #383215 by Stealthy Ninja

gdbrekke wrote: What Joves and Hassner said...

Shoot RAW and then use Lightroom, Photoshop or Aperture to convert to B&W/Monochrome.

In Lightroom (and maybe Aperture too) you retain all the color data when you convert to B&W and are still able to adjust individual colors - along with most other adjustments like contrast, shadow, highlights, etc. - as if you were using filters to shoot monochrome.

Cheers,
Gregg


Sure, but what if they could do the following:
Make every pixel measure true luminance values and not used to extrapolate tones or hues, therefore making the full potential of the sensor better exploited, resulting in sharper images.


???????????????????? WELL ?????????????????????????
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9 years 10 months ago #383241 by NickSano

Superman wrote: I wouldn't have any problems doing this on an older camera.  But not something like a D800.  



A path I may end up taking.  I like the idea of a B&W camera, how nostalgic! 


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9 years 10 months ago #383342 by Howard T

Superman wrote: I wouldn't have any problems doing this on an older camera.  But not something like a D800.  



I was going to say the same thing.  


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9 years 10 months ago #383369 by icepics
Same thing came to mind as what Adrian posted - but not too many people could afford that! I know people have gotten cameras converted to shoot ir, I don't know if it would be worth the money to convert to B&W. I shoot film so that's easy, just put in B&W film! lol or ir film for that matter, and use red filters.

But seriously, when I've done B&W digital I found comparing some of my own film and darkroom and digital that the Photoshop conversion made portions of the image darker or lighter than in the original. So I haven't been using the conversion setting in Photoshop, I remove color - which is really what B&W is, the absence of color. That's what I found works for me. I'm usually thinking about B&W before I start shooting, thinking about the tones, if I see nice contrast of dark and light in the scene, etc.

Sharon
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9 years 10 months ago #383370 by Joves

Stealthy Ninja wrote:

gdbrekke wrote: What Joves and Hassner said...

Shoot RAW and then use Lightroom, Photoshop or Aperture to convert to B&W/Monochrome.

In Lightroom (and maybe Aperture too) you retain all the color data when you convert to B&W and are still able to adjust individual colors - along with most other adjustments like contrast, shadow, highlights, etc. - as if you were using filters to shoot monochrome.

Cheers,
Gregg


Sure, but what if they could do the following:
Make every pixel measure true luminance values and not used to extrapolate tones or hues, therefore making the full potential of the sensor better exploited, resulting in sharper images.


???????????????????? WELL ?????????????????????????


Yeah but reading their page they are not doing that unless they are rewriting the algorithms for the processing. They are merely messing with the filters. In this case they are converting the D800 into an E version with their HR filter, getting rid of the AA filter. So by just messing with the filtration only you are not really increasing any of the cameras ability to measure true luminance. With the D800 you are better of getting the HR filter than a B&W conversion. The Leica you showed is specifically made that way. In this case you can do just as good with your processing software, so why bother with a stupid conversion that limits your camera. Well unless you have money to burn so you have a camera to shoot color as well, or better yet buy the Leica. :P


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9 years 10 months ago #383390 by Sawyer
Interesting process, but from what I understand you will get better results from a camera that has been converted vs trying to do the same in Photoshop.  

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