How to get closer than 1:1 for macro photography?

Morning peeps!

If it makes a difference for this question, I'm a FF Nikon shooter.   I'd like to see about getting greater magnification greater than 1:1.  Really I'm looking for ideas that are economic and easy to implement.  I know many of you are hard core macro people.  I want to take a deeper dive into macro, but want to avoid things that are complex or crazy long learn curves if possible.  At least till I get the hang of this.   
What has been your experience with tubes?  

Tubes and a good tripod.

Extension Tubes can get you greater than 1:1 magnification.  But at a cost of light transmission, hence the tripod.  Tubes are relatively inexpensive, they come in different sizes for different magnification, they are stackable for even more variances in magnification, they will fit your lenses, (for even more variances, i.e. a tube on a 300mm will give you a different look than the same tube on a 50mm), and as the tubes are hollow (no glass), you'll maintain the same lens quality/resolution of the existing lens.

But tubes will significantly slow you down, they are somewhat awkward to use and the greater the magnification the less light hits the sensor.   

PS- I'm not a macro guy, consequently I hope real macro photogs will add their two cents. 

Use a bellows. That will get you as close as you want.

Here are (most) of your options. 

Extension tubes:
Pros- Inexpensive, easy to use, great for field use
Cons- Pretty much lose AF (but this is macro, WE DON’T NEED NO STEEKING AF!), reduces your DoF slightly, will require a bit more light, not always a tight fit. 

You must match the length of the tubes to that of the lens’ focal length in order to achieve a 1/1. Going farther will give you more magnification, however, this starts to make the camera awkward and always feels “unstable” to me. I don’t recommend doing that. If that’s the case, then use...

Bellows:
Pros- Extremely flexible (Pun intended). If you are in a studio, these work very well.
Cons: You will need a bellows set up, which may cost a bit more or requires some craftiness to stabilize. There are lots of ideas on an internet search. This is not a set up for the field. 

I don’t have any personal experience with these. I am a “Field only” type of macro shooter. 

Raynox:
Pros- Inexpensive, clips on and off for ease, let’s you get REALLY close!!
Cons- Considered “advanced”. A 250 will give you 2.5 magnification with a macro lens. Decreases DoF significantly. Be prepared to use a flash, diffuser set up, and shooting at f/22 at all times. Can also cause heavy vignetting due to it it’s size compared to the lens. At shorter focusing distances, the vignetting gets better. 

I have several photos in my album at 2.5x magnification if you are curious. They should be labeled as such. 

Reversed lens:
Pros- Can use a lens you already have, increases your effective f/stops (a pro depending on what lens you’re using, otherwise, moot), good image quality
Cons-Can damage the electronics that are responsible for the AF (and IS?) on the lens Reversing the lens leaves them exposed and puts them at risk. Make sure it’s a lens that you are ok if you bump it. 

I think this covers most of them. I’ll add to the thread if I can think of another one. 

In conclusion, I think extension tubes are the best solution if you want the absolutely easiest, cheapest, and the most flexible, option. The other options are possibly better served in niche type macro, like studio only, or much higher magnification on a budget.

Just want to let you guys know that I saw your responses.  I'm on a conference call and will check out these more in detail in a bit.  Thank you!

I used to work with the PB6 in the days. Now, I got me
two sets of Kenko full Nikon contacts extension tubes
and it is very fine.

I completely misread the “Closer than...” part of your question. Ignore the lens reversal part. 

Raynox and Extension tubes are your least expensive options. I only use one 16mm tube on my 90mm though. It gets me much closer without killing my DoF. 

G'day Tristan

Ah mate - this brings back memories from 30-40 yrs ago ... when I was also mad about super macro stuff [yes- and back in film camera days]

Okay - my 2-cents worth .... possible repeating what some others here also have mentioned
1) to create 1:1 your magnification needs to equal the focal length > so 50mm of tubes or bellows bolted onto a 50mm lens will give you 1:1
2) from above - 50mm of tubes on a 24mm lens will give 2:1 magnification [done this many times]
3) more then 2:1 you'll need a different lens system - see 6) below
Problems-
4) you get so close that the filter thread touches the subject &/or throws a shadow onto the subject

5) this 4) problem is why reversing rings were popular - as the lens nodal point to focus point is the focal length, therefore you will always have 50mm or 24mm distance to the subject ~ reversing naturally loses all electronics but maintains sharpness and full aperture use on MANUAL lenses

6) from 3) above, if you want to get into 3x to 10x magnifications you need to swap to 'micro' lenses from microscope makers - these are fully manual and need adapters made to measure to bolt onto your tubes or whatever you are using

7) illumination - best is 2x low-power flashguns, each at 45deg top-left & top-right from the subject and 4" to 10" from the subject. Practice will get it right

Hope this helps
Phil from the great land Downunder
www.flickr.com/photos/ozzie_traveller/sets/

Tubes will be the cheapest and easiest to pick up and use.   

G'day Tristan

To follow on from above-
a) Search evil-bay for $5 manual extension tubes that screw together and hopefully also include a body bayonet adapter for your camera body - get 2 sets
b) search flea markets etc for old $20 film camera wide-angle lenses- 35mm camera will be very common, 28mm less so, 24mm hard to find - but get a lens of some sort
c) chase up B&H or Adorama for a $20 reversing ring to go from the extension tube thread into the film camera filter thread - match diameter to diameter

Once you've got the above stuff you can start playing - and the film camera lens can be manually aperture opened & closed as needed. Focus at F8 or thereabouts, close down to F22 for exposures

Hope this helps
Phil from the great land Downunder
www.flickr.com/photos/ozzie_traveller/sets/