One of the most dazzling shows in the night sky is a meteor shower.

And though there are times throughout the year when they are easy to see - including the upcoming Geminid Meteor Shower on the night of December 13 into the morning of December 14, 2017 - it can be difficult to capture them in a still photo.

That's because you have no idea when a meteor will light up in the sky, which means you have to get set up with the right gear to take as many photos as possible during the meteor shower.

There's some pressure, for sure, but with these simple tips, you can set yourself up for success.

Editor's Tip: Whether you're new to astrophotography or a seasoned veteran, you can find all the required gear you need to take photos of the night sky at MrStarGuy. That includes telescopes, astrophotography mounts and accessories, and tripods, to name a view. Learn more about their astrophotography gear at MrStarGuy.com.

Pre-Focus Your Lens

You will want your lens focused to infinity in order to get the sharpest image of the meteor shower. It's hard to manually focus a lens in the dead of night, though.

So, the day before you head out to your shoot location, head outside and set the focus on your lens by focusing on a far away object.

Once you have the object in sharp focus, tape the focus ring into place using gaffer's tape (which won't leave any sticky residue on your lens). Doing so ensures that the lens ring won't move and that you will have tack-sharp images.

If you forget to pre-focus your lens the day before, don't despair. If the moon is out, use it to focus the lens. A bright star will also do the trick.

Whatever method you use, be sure to use Live View to zoom in on the object to ensure your focus is spot on before taping the focus ring in place.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Milky Way (in Simple English)
• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky

Use a Fast Wide-Angle Lens

The faster the lens you have, the better. Ideally, the lens will have a maximum aperture of at least f/2.8. Something along the lines of f/1.8 or f/1.4 would be even better.

Large apertures allow more light into the lens, meaning you can capture more light streaks from meteors as they streak across the sky.

That's why a wide-angle lens is an ideal choice for meteor showers as well. With a wider field of view, you'll be able to capture more of the sky, and more meteors, too.

In the video above by PhotoPills, you can see a wide-angle view of the 2015 Geminid Meteor shower.

Shooting with a wide-angle lens helps you incorporate other elements, like the landscape in the foreground, to give the shot even more visual interest and serve as an anchor to the sea of stars above it.

However, remember that the more sky you incorporate into the shot, the more likely you are to capture images of the meteors. Find a good balance between showing as much sky but while also incorporating foreground interest.

Editor's Tip: If you want to expand your ability to take photos of the night sky, consider purchasing a star tracking mount, like the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker. These mounts attach to your camera, giving you the ability to track stars as they move across the sky. The result is an elimination of star trails, so your photos have sharp, pinpoint stars. Get outfitted with a Polarie star tracking mount today.

Suggested Exposure Settings

Though the settings you use to photograph meteors will depend on the particular setting in which you shoot, you can at least start with the following:

• Aperture: As wide as possible, preferably f/1.4-f/2.8
• Shutter speed: 15-25 seconds
• ISO: 2000

Naturally, if you start with these settings and the image is either too dark or too bright, you'll need to make some adjustments to the settings to correct that problem.

Additionally, beware of noise from using a high ISO. Some cameras can handle higher ISOs better than others, so if you can get your hands on a faster lens, do so, and then use a slower ISO to control for noise.

Do a few test shots of the night sky to get the exposure settings nailed down, and once you have a good exposure, put the camera in continuous drive mode and use a remote shutter release to snap each photo.

Learn More:

• Explore More Astrophotography Tips
• Quick Tips for Photographing the Full Moon or Supermoon
• These Hubble Space Telescope Photos Will Absolutely Boggle Your Mind

Get Geared Up

In addition to your camera, a fast wide-angle lens, and a camera remote, you'll need a few other things to maximize your ability to get high-quality photos of meteors.

First and foremost, you need a tripod to give your camera a stable base for shooting. Since your shutter speed will be anywhere from 15-25 seconds long, a solid tripod is imperative for getting tack-sharp photos.

Secondly, you need additional camera batteries at the very least (a battery grip with two batteries at a minimum) or better still, an external battery pack for your camera.

All that juice is necessary because you'll be shooting photo after photo for a long period of time - maybe even all night.

The last thing you want is to get into a groove of taking photos of a meteor shower only to run out of battery power.

Lastly, you'll want extra storage capacity to store all the photos you take.

The larger the capacity and the faster the read/write speed of the card, the better.

Again, you don't want to miss out on taking epic shots because you have to swap out cards or because the card you're using spends too much time writing the images.

Editor's Tip: Get geared up for astrophotography with MrStarGuy. Find everything from headlamps and flashlights, external battery sources, tripods, and everything in between! MrStarGuy has a reputation for offering excellent products at incredible prices. Their customer service is top-notch as well. That's why we recommend MrStarGuy to our readers!

---

Astrophotography is a lot like real estate in that it's all about location, location, location.

To pull off the very best photos of the night sky, you need to put yourself in a spot that affords you an unobstructed view and offers dark skies, among other things.

With this quick-start guide, I offer up a few tips for helping you figure out where you need to be to get breathtaking nighttime photos.

Find a Spot With a View

Obviously you need to set up your gear in a location that gives you an unobstructed view of the sky.

Whether you're photographing the Milky Way, a supermoon, a meteor shower, or some other celestial event, you won't even be able to get started if there's buildings and trees in the way.

Having said that, from a compositional standpoint, your images will be stronger if you include elements in the foreground, midground, or background of the photo.

For example, when photographing the moon, framing the shot to include trees, as was done in the image above, makes the photo more interesting.

If there aren't any trees nearby, you can include a foreground element, like a person, to give the shot some interest, or you can wait for clouds to pass in front of the moon for a photo that's more appealing.

Editor's Tip: Eliminate star trails and get gorgeous photos of pinpoint stars by using a star tracking mount. The Vixen Polarie is an easy-to-use star tracker that's equipped with a compass and a polar scope for alignment. Once the mount is oriented to face north, it will track the movement of the stars to eliminate star trails. The device supports cameras up to 7 lbs., and will even work with your smartphone! Learn more about the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount.

Avoid Light Pollution

Another critical factor in finding the ideal location for astrophotography is light pollution.

The darker the skies around you, the easier it will be for you to highlight the beauty of the night sky.

Years ago, finding dark sites meant that you had to get in the car and drive around until you found a suitable spot.

Today, though, there are numerous apps that tell you where to find the darkest skies, like Dark Site Finder, shown above.

Just enter the location where you'd like to shoot, and Dark Site finder will give you a heat signature map of the area. The less red, yellow, green, and blue you see on the map, the darker the site will be.

Though dark skies are ideal, they aren't completely required.

That is, you can capture a beautiful image of the night sky above a city, as shown above.

Illuminating the foreground of the shot with a flashlight or headlamp can render interesting results as well, as you can see below.

The point is that it's a good idea to begin your astrophotography pursuits in areas with as little light pollution as possible.

But as you get experience photographing the night sky and want to create more unique and varied photos, try branching out to shoot locations where light pollution can be used as an artistic element.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Milky Way (in Simple English)
• These Common Astrophotography Mistakes are Holding You Back

Be Considerate (and Obey the Law)

When looking for a spot to photograph the night sky, there's some practical issues to consider in addition to the view and the level of light pollution.

For starters, just because an area fits the criteria for a photo shoot doesn't mean that you're allowed to be in that area.

Be wary of wandering onto private property or setting up in an area that poses a danger to yourself or others (i.e., in the middle of a country dirt road).

If you're not sure if the spot you've chosen is private property, find another spot. It's best to be safe than sorry.

Likewise, if you select a location that's in a state park, national forest, national park, and so forth, you might be required to pay entrance fees or at the very least check in with local rangers or other authorities to let them know you're in the area.

The same goes for shooting in cities - you might need a permit to set up your gear on a sidewalk to get a shot of the stars above a busy freeway.

If you're shooting away and someone asks what you're doing, why you're there, or demands that you leave, be considerate and comply with all reasonable requests.

Though it's certainly satisfying to capture beautiful photos of the night sky, it's not worth it to risk a confrontation, a fine, or worse.

Editor's Tip: Get your astrophotography kit filled out with everything from tripods to binoculars, filters to carrying cases, and everything in between at MrStarGuy. MrStarGuy is the premier astrophotography retailer with a wide selection of products at prices that won't break the bank. Explore their inventory here.

---

Naturally, a camera, lens, mount, and tripod are among the essentials for astrophotography. But there are a few optional items you might want to add to your kit as well.

Let's take a look at just a few items that you might want. Keep in mind that the kind of gear you'll need is somewhat dependent on the types of astrophotography you intend to pursue.

With that in mind, here's a short list of some optional items.

A Telescope

This is probably the most obvious purchase if you're planning to reach out with your camera.

Not all scopes are intended for deep space viewing, though, so you may want to consider one even if you're just planning to stick with wide field astrophotography for now.

It's also important to remember that higher magnification means not only more cost for the scope, but more sophisticated equipment required for stabilization and tracking.

There's much to know about focal length, aperture, back focus, and other mechanisms of optics. But here are a few that we recommend for DSLR photography in the three main categories of astrophotography.

For wide field photos, the Vixen ED103S is a great choice in a refractor, especially for the novice. It's ideal for those who want to reach out a bit more with a precision instrument at a reasonable cost.

For basic deep sky imaging at a reasonable price, you might want to take a look at the Vixen R200SS Newtonian Reflector Telescope (shown above). This reflector provides a 200mm focal length with an f/4 parabolic primary mirror that gives you extremely sharp images.

With a scope of this size, you can see groups of nebula, comets, and star clusters. Add an optional coma corrector, and you'll get even sharper coma-free images.

For a little more telescopic power, you can opt for something like the Vixen VMC260L Reflector Telescope that's ideal for deep sky and planetary astrophotography.

This rig is a modified Cassegrain design with a long focal length and a large 260mm aperture to collect the light needed for high-quality photos of deep space. And with a double meniscus corrector lens design, spherical aberration and field curvature are eliminated while offering superb contrast in your images.

I know the technicalities of telescopes might be confusing, so be sure to visit the links in the Learn More section below for more details.

Learn More:

• Get More Details on the Vixen ED103S
• Get More Details on the Vixen R200SS
• Get More Details on the Vixen VMC260L

A Mounting System

There are two factors that create challenges when shooting celestial objects from a terrestrial location:

1. High magnification ratios exaggerate even the smallest movement.

2. Because the earth rotates, keeping a distant object in the field of view during long exposures or over multiple exposures requires tracking or otherwise adjusting the angle of the scope. This is also a factor in initially locating celestial objects, compounded by the fact that those objects are also moving.

Obviously, the solution for the minimizing movement of the scope is to use a highly stable mount on a very rigid tripod. The second factor is much more complex and there are many solutions available, from star charts and the most basic manual tracking systems to sophisticated, computerized "go to" and tracking firmware.

There are basically two types of mounts available for telescopes, and the difference is important for astrophotographers.

An alt-azimuth mount, like the Vixen Porta II shown above, adjusts the angle of the optics along two axes, altitude and azimuth. These two axes must be adjusted independently in order to keep an object centered over time. A mount like this requires a universal plate to attach a camera to it and is ideal for photographing bright objects like the moon or Venus.

An equatorial mount, like the Vixen Advanced Polaris Mount shown below, is also adjusted on two axes. However, one, known as the polar axis, is aligned parallel to the Earth's rotation while the other, declination, adjusts the line of sight perpendicular to the polar axis to locate objects. Once an object is located, only the polar axis needs to be rotated to keep the object centered.

The equatorial mount is generally preferable for astrophotography, but for those of you investing in an astrophotography setup now, an alt-azimuth mount is perfectly fine. Regardless of the type of mount chosen, however, it will need to matched to the scope or scopes you'll be using. Most manufacturers, like Vixen Optics, offer mount and tripod combinations dedicated to specific lines of scopes, so be sure to consider the scope you'll use before choosing a mount.

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on Top-Notch Astrophotography Mounts

Software

There are a great number of accessories you may need or want, and the list will vary according to the categories of astrophotography you're involved in. There are a few items, however, that will be common to all aspects of astrophotography, and one of those is software.

Image stacking is a very common practice in astrophotography, and you'll eventually want to have image editing software that's capable of it. If you're already using a recent version of Adobe Photoshop, you've got it covered. If not, consider a subscription to the Creative Cloud version.

---

Before we launch into discussions about astrophotography techniques, some time needs to be spent on the equipment you'll want to consider having on hand.

After all, if you don't have the gear that you need to practice what you're learning, what's the point?!

That being the case, I'd like to take some time to go over a few details about cameras for astrophotography.

Digital vs. Film

Film cameras are perfectly suitable for astrophotography. After all, photographers have been taking successful astronomy shots on film for decades.

That said, digital technology has given us much more versatility and convenience. Put simply, modern DSLRs are faster, easier to use, and more capable than their predecessors.

So, while I encourage the use of film cameras in all areas of photography, these discussions will be centered on DSLR camera usage.

DSLR Camera Choices

As in any form of photography, the camera doesn't make the astrophotographer. There are, however, some important considerations and limitations that are specific to this type of photography. The first one we'll discuss is a limitation in all standard DSLRs on the market.

"Where's the Red?"

Your DSLR "sees" differently than you do. Unlike our eyes, digital imaging sensors are sensitive to all colors of light in the spectrum.

In daylight conditions, the sensitivity to infrared light frequencies causes a shift in the colors we perceive in an image. To counteract this, standard DSLR cameras include a permanent IR limiting filter that corrects the color balance.

In astrophotography, this filter blocks wavelengths of light emitted by some celestial objects, such as nebulae. The reds produced by these "H-alpha" wavelengths add incredible color and detail to many areas of our universe.

While this lack of reds will go unnoticed by most viewers and a good-quality standard DSLR is suitable to use, the difference will be dramatic in many images.

If you're serious about this field, you may want to consider a DSLR that's designed specifically for astronomy shots. The most notable models from manufacturers are the Canon EOS 60Da and the Nikon D810a shown above.

Both of these come with modified IR filters that allow the H-alpha reds to pass. The 60Da was introduced in 2012, so it's possible now to find used ones fairly inexpensively, while the D810a is a newer, full-frame camera with stunning 36.3MP resolution and a much higher price tag.

It's also possible to have your standard DSLR modified by a lab that specializes in replacing the IR filters. This is a fairly pricey operation, and it will render the camera almost useless for daylight work.

Some labs also offer pre-modified versions. These models often use special filters that allow the camera to produce relatively normal daylight shots.

Learn More:

• Astrophotography Gear: The Essentials

It's Noisy Out in Space!

Alright, not really, but noise is a major consideration in choosing a camera – digital noise, that is.

Astrophotography shots may require very long exposures – as much as 15 minutes – at high ISO settings. As you probably know, digital noise production increases as ISO settings increase. What you may not know is that digital sensors heat up when they're activated and the hotter they get, the more noise they produce.

That means that those deep sky shots can be completely riddled with noise and the better the noise suppression in your DSLR, the less cleanup you'll have to do in post-processing.

A camera with a good rating for low noise will make your life much easier. As a general rule, crop-sensor DSLR cameras will generate more noise than full-frame, but the difference in price may make that a tough choice. At the end of the day, just buy the best camera you can afford.

Learn More:

• Astrophotography Gear: Optional Equipment

The Other Stuff

There are other features you're going to need, and most are built into almost any modern DSLR:

• Full manual exposure setting

• Bulb (B) shutter mode with a timer

• Remote shutter operation

• Manual Focusing

• High ISO range

• Live View Mode

• Movie recording capability

You'll also want to think about features that make shooting upward easier, like a top-side LCD panel, and/or an articulated LCD viewing screen.

With a wide range of DSLRs and options available, the bells and whistles will be a matter of your preference.

Learn More:

• Astrophotography Basics: Understanding the Scope

Specialized Cameras and Mounts

You may also want to take a look at some of the more unusual cameras built for specific purposes, such as full-sky shooting.

Some cameras are even designed to fit the eyepiece of a telescope. You can also get something like the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount shown above, pair it with your digital camera, and use it to track the motion of the stars and other celestial bodies without star trails forming in the shot.

This information should get you on the right road to choosing the right camera for astrophotography, but if you're already the owner of a good DSLR, don't hesitate to get out there with it!

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on Telescopes, Camera Mounts, and Other Astrophotography Gear
• Astrophotography Basics: Mounting the Scope

---

Naturally, the first piece of basic gear that you're going to need for astrophotography is a camera. We discuss that topic in depth in another article.

Aside from that, there are some essential pieces of equipment, some that are only necessary for specific types of shots, and some that just make the process easier and more fun.

In this article, we discuss the basic essentials that you'll need for a solid astrophotography kit.

The Essentials

What are the bare minimum requirements for success in astrophotography?

You'll probably get different answers to that question from different people, partly because many people focus on a specific type of astrophotography.

We're going to start this off by listing the gear required to simply set up your DSLR for great night sky shots. That's basically wide field astrophotography, but some specialized equipment can be called for even in that category. For now, let's look at a bare-bones setup.

A Manual Focus Lens

Autofocus isn't going to work with objects millions of miles away. Instead, you'll need lenses that focus manually or can be switched to manual.

Lenses with focusing scales will make the job easier. Focal lengths will depend on what you plan to shoot. Keep in mind that the longer the focal length, the more susceptible your setup will be to blurring from camera shake.

You can, of course, use a scope for a lens, too.

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on Telescopes and Other Gear

A Solid Tripod

This really shouldn't require an explanation, but trying to hand-hold your camera when shooting celestial bodies is pointless.

Your exposure times are going to be in multiple seconds and often multiple minutes. You're going to need a tripod, and it needs to be sturdy.

Be prepared to add weight to it with sandbags or other means to make sure it's rooted solidly to the ground.

You can get by with a simple ball or pan and tilt head on your tripod for basic, wide field shots or star trails.

Of course, if you are out to view the stars with a telescope, a solid tripod like the one shown above is a must as well.

Learn More:

• Shop Tripods for Astrophotography and Viewing the Night Sky
• Astrophotography Gear: Optional Equipment

A Remote Shutter Release

Minimizing camera shake is priority one when you're working with extreme distances and very long exposures, and your camera's shutter delay timer may not be enough since even the tiniest bit of movement will blur those distant targets.

Plunger-type cable releases are also likely to induce movement because of both their mechanical operation and their overall stiffness.

Electronic shutter releases are so inexpensive these days that there's no excuse not to have one. It doesn't matter whether it's wired or wireless, so long as it isolates your hand completely from the camera at the critical moment.

This is one item you may want to consider upgrading to a more versatile option. Intervalometers are also inexpensive now and will work just as well for individual shots. That will also provide you with the opportunity to add time lapse videos to your astrophotography portfolio.

Learn More:

• 6 Reasons Why Every Photographer Needs a Camera Remote

A Flashlight

You're going to be shooting in the dark and preferably far away from light-polluted cities, so you need to carry a small flashlight (or even better, a headlamp) in your bag.

Not only is a flashlight handy for checking and adjusting camera settings, but you'll also need one for locating dropped batteries or memory cards.

You never know what kind of animals (or people) you'll encounter while taking night photos, either, so a headlamp is ideal for keeping an eye out for anything that might be sharing your space.

Final Thoughts

There's not much more needed for a basic astrophotography setup, beyond what you should already have with your outdoor camera gear.

This basic setup and the techniques you can learn in our other astrophotography articles will provide you with wide field images you'll be proud to share.

The real challenge isn't finding great gear to help you get the shots you want - it's finding the time to actually get outside and take the photos!

So, as you think about the gear you need to fill out your astrophotography kit, start planning your adventures and stick to those plans. After all, practice makes perfect!

---

One of the challenges of capturing beautiful photos of the night sky is to get the shot perfectly in focus.

Though modern cameras have incredible autofocus systems, they rely on light to obtain their focus. That means that when you're out shooting stars at night, the camera's autofocus will constantly hunt for the contrast it needs to determine the focus of the shot.

Without being able to rely on autofocus, you'll have to take the reins and focus manually to get clear, sharp photos.

The question is, how do you do that?

Editor's Tip: Want to take improved photos of the night sky? Get outfitted with the necessary gear from MrStarGuy. MrStarGuy is a family-owned company dedicated to offering top-quality products that are affordable and backed by excellent customer service. For astrophotography mounts, tripods, telescopes, and more, visit MrStarguy.com.

Certain Gear Helps

First things first, you need a lens with a large aperture.

The larger the aperture, the more light the lens can collect, and that makes focusing at night much easier.

You don't have to spring for something like an f/1.2 or f/1.4 lens (though that would be great!). If the budget is a concern, a f/1.8 a f/2 or even a f/2.8 lens should do the trick.

Additionally, you want a sturdy tripod that gives your camera a nice, stable base for shooting the photos.

After all, it won't matter how well you've focused the shot if the camera isn't stable to take the photo! 

Follow This Procedure

Before I outline the different ways you can focus your lens at night, it's important to note a few basic steps you'll use regardless of the focusing method.

Once you have your camera and tripod set up, you'll need to switch your camera or lens to manual focus.

Ensure you're using a large aperture - f/2.8 or lower - and set the ISO to about 3200. Again, this helps let as much light into the lens as possible and increases the sensitivity of the sensor to light as well.

Using Live View, zoom in on a bright object as closely as possible. While watching the LCD, manually adjust the focus as needed until the subject is tack-sharp.

Once you've got the image in sharp focus, lock down the focus ring with gaffer's tape. You can then adjust the camera positioning as needed to compose your shot.

 

Manual Focusing Method #1: Pre-Focus

Photography is all about preparation, and this method of manual focus requires some forethought.

Rather than waiting until dark to acquire focus, you can simply pre-focus your lens ahead of time.

Using this method, you can actually focus the shot using autofocus, but you have to be sure to lock the focus in place. This can be done by switching your lens or camera from autofocus to manual focus once you have the desired focus set.

It's important to note the distance marking on your lens when you're focused at infinity. This will help you reacquire the proper focus if you accidentally move the focus ring. As noted above, a better idea is to use gaffers tape to hold the focus ring in place.

Though this is perhaps the easiest method of focusing for night photography, the drawback is that you can't easily refocus the shot later on if need be.

Editor's Tip: If you want to observe the night sky in greater detail, consider adding a telescope to your kit. MrStarGuy offers a variety of astrophotography telescopes that are ideal for viewing the night sky and getting sharp, detail-rich images. Get more details on MrStarGuy's astrophotography telescopes.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Milky Way (in Plain English)

Manual Focusing Method #2: Get Help With Artificial Light

Using an artificial light source is helpful because it obviously gives your lens the light it needs to help you acquire focus.

This can occur in two different ways.

First, you can focus on a distant light source, for example, light emanating from a light pole in the background of your shot.

Assuming the light is sufficiently bright and far enough away (so that you can focus at infinity), this can be a hugely helpful method of getting the focus right in your shots of the night sky.

Another way you can utilize artificial light is to use it to light paint in the foreground.

This method doesn't do you much good for focusing on distant objects like stars.

However, if you focus stack your images, you can use a flashlight or a headlamp to illuminate the foreground to get a sharply focused image that you can blend with one you previously took of the sky.

My headlamp of choice is the Petzl NAO + (shown above) because it offers tons of versatility and is a durable rig to boot.

It puts out 750 lumens - more than enough for light painting - so you can create dreamy foregrounds for your astro images.

And not only is it incredibly comfortable to wear, but it also has smart features that make it more functional, too.

In particular, the MyPetzl Light App allows you to keep track of things like battery power, and if you're running low, you can make adjustments to the performance of the headlamp to extend the battery life. Crazy, right?!

The NAO + also boasts a handy feature called Reactive Lighting, which allows the headlamp to instantaneously adjust to the ambient lighting conditions, that way you have just the right amount of light for your photography exploits.

That makes it the perfect choice for light painting and other photography adventures at night!

Either way, if you use an artificial light source to help you get the light you need to focus the shot, it's advantageous to have a lens with an aperture of at least f/2.8 to collect as much light as possible.

Learn More:

• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky

 

Manual Focusing Method #3: Focus on a Bright Star

If there's no objects immediately in the foreground of the shot, you can simply use a bright star for acquiring the focus.

To make things easier, you should pre-focus the lens to infinity, as outlined in the first method above. This will at least get you in the neighborhood of having the shot in focus.

That's important because there will be a lot of noise in the shot, so making out stars can be difficult to do.

Using the camera's LCD, zoom in on the brightest star you can find, making adjustments to the focus ring as necessary to bring the stars into focus.

When you think you've got the focus down, take a photo, then review it to make any exposure adjustments. Take additional practice photos until you have a good exposure.

Be sure to zoom in on the images you take to double-check the focus of the shot, refocusing as needed.

If it seems like a complicated process, it really isn't, especially as you get some practice.

In the video above, Greg Benz offers more details about each of these focusing methods and shows you a live demo of how to manually focus at night.

Now all that's left to do is find a dark spot, set up your gear, and set about getting sharply focused images of the stars.

Editor's Tip: For more tutorials on astrophotography, check out our astrophotography section, sponsored by our friends at MrStarGuy. Learn about composition, camera settings, gear, and other essentials for capturing breathtaking photos of the stars and other celestial objects.

Learn More:

• Quick Tips for Photographing the Full Moon or Supermoon

---

When you grab your gear and head out at night to photograph the Milky Way, you're probably thinking about photography stuff...

You know, composition, framing, camera settings, and so forth.

But have you ever stopped to think about your subject and how incredible it is?

The next time you've got a Milky Way photo shoot planned, think about the following intriguing facts about our home galaxy.

At the Center of the Milky Way is a Huge Black Hole

The black hole at the center of our galaxy isn't just big, it's supermassive.

Called Sagittarius A, it's so big that it weighs about 4 million times more than the sun.

It's never been seen before because it's shrouded in a thick cloud of gas and dust, but astronomers are working on a way to get the first glimpse of this black hole.

Most galaxies have black holes at their cores, so the Milky Way isn't unique in that regard. But the sheer size of Sagittarius A is a little unusual.

Get a look at the center of our galaxy in the video above by the Chandra X-Ray Observatory.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Milky Way (in Simple English)
• These Common Astrophotography Mistakes are Holding You Back

A Shroud of Dark Matter Engulfs the Milky Way

The dark matter that surrounds our galactic home is much, much larger than the galaxy itself.

It's more than a mysterious cloud, though.

Since stars in the galaxy rotate around the galaxy's center at such incredible speeds, without something there to hold them in place, the stars would simply fly outward.

Shaped like a halo, this dark matter actually prevents that from happening, keeping the galaxy together.

The Milky Way Consumes Nearby Galaxies

The Milky Way seems to have an appetite...

How do we know?

Decades of scientific study have revealed about 24 remnants of stars on the edges of the Milky Way.

These leftover stars are parts of galaxies that once existed, but got too close to the Milky Way.

The Milky Way was able to gobble these galaxies up because its gravitational forces were much stronger than those smaller galaxies.

Editor's Tip: Maximize your ability to get beautiful, clear, and sharp images of the Milky Way by using the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker from MrStarGuy. This device attaches to a normal tripod and accommodates cameras that weigh up to seven pounds. Using the built-in compass or North Star Alignment Window, you can orient the Polarie to face north, and once set, it will track the motion of the stars as they move across the sky. This eliminates star trails and results in tack-sharp images of the Milky Way. Visit MrStarGuy to learn more.

Our Galaxy is Mostly Flat

Earth might be round, but the Milky Way is virtually flat.

Scientists have measured the Milky Way at one hundred thousand light-years across, but it measures just one thousand light-years thick.

We're located in one of the galaxy's "arms," roughly 26,000 light-years away from the core of the Milky Way. At the core is a huge collection of stars and dust.

The illustration above depicts what the Milky Way might look like from afar.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Night Sky
• Astrophotography Tip: How to Manually Focus Your Lens

The Milky Way Isn't Just a Band of Stars in the Sky

When you look at the Milky Way, you can clearly see it streaming across the sky like a ribbon.

But that ribbon of stars is just part of the Milky Way. In fact, every single star you see when you look up at the sky is in the Milky Way.

If you find a spot that's dark enough, you can actually see the clouds of dust and gas in deep space that prevent some of the light from stars from reaching earth.

In the video above by daveachuck, you can take a simulated tour of our galaxy, beyond the dust and gas that prevent us from seeing further into space.

The video uses images taken by the Spitzer Space Telescope's infrared view of the sky.

The Milky Way is Dying

The Milky Way's nearest neighbor, the Andromeda Galaxy, is getting nearer and nearer.

At some point, likely around 4 billion years from now, the two spiral galaxies will collide.

And though that sounds like something that would likely destroy everything in the two galaxies, scientists don't think that will happen.

Instead, the theory is that the two galaxies will combine, with very little damage being done to the stars and planets in either galaxy.

In fact, scientists believe that Earth will survive, and that the newly combined galaxy will provide an even more incredible show in the sky than we already see today.

Editor's Tip: For more tutorials on astrophotography, visit our astrophotography section, sponsored by our friends at MrStarGuy.

Via National Geographic

---

There are many challenges with astrophotography, to be sure.

But it's a mistake to think that it's not something that the average photographer can master.

In fact, if you're armed with the right gear and have a strong understanding of the fundamentals of photography, astrophotography doesn't have to be any more difficult than taking a regular photo.

In the night sky photography tutorial below, we've answered a few questions about astrophotography camera settings and other common questions.

Astrophotography Camera Settings: What White Balance Should I Use?

The nice thing about digital photography is that if the white balance is off in your images of the night sky, you can always correct it in post-processing.

Even better, shooting in RAW enables you to make white balance adjustments before you open the file in Photoshop, Lightroom or whatever program you prefer to use.

However, getting the white balance just right in-camera will save you the time required to fix it later.

In many cases, the daylight white balance will get you the best results.

Though it seems counterintuitive to use the daylight white balance setting when taking photos of the night sky, it produces the best colors of the stars.

Learn More:

• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky
• Astrophotography Tip: How to Manually Focus Your Lens

What Aperture is Best for Astrophotography?

When thinking about how to do astrophotography, a primary question people have is what aperture is the best?

Well, the answer to that question is that it depends.

That's because each situation is unique and each lens performs a little differently.

So in some situations, an aperture of f/3.2 might be the best bet while in other situations an aperture of f/8 might work better with many variations in between.

What's important to remember is this: the smaller the aperture, the lower the amount of light entering the lens.

So, if change the aperture from f/2.8 to f/5.6, you'll need to either extend the shutter speed or boost the ISO (or both) to brighten the image to account for the reduced amount of light.

But also keep in mind that while larger apertures allow more light into the lens, they also don't provide as sharp of results as shooting with an aperture closer to the lens's sweet spot.

That is, shooting at f/2.8 might be great from a light perspective, but shooting at f/8 might get you a much sharper photo.

As with many things in photography, finding the right aperture for your astrophotography will require some practice and patience.

Should I Include Foreground Interest?

As a beginner astrophotographer, you might find yourself drawn to composing images of the night sky by itself.

And while there's nothing wrong with that, you might also find that if you include foreground interest of some sort, that the photos you create have much more visual appeal.

For example, in the image above, the Milky Way is obviously what makes this photo.

However, by taking a vertical shot and including the frozen lake in the foreground, the photo has much more interest and context, making for a far better photo.

For this tip to work, though, the foreground needs to be interesting...

In the shot above, the foreground is both uninteresting and too bright. The result is a photo that isn't all that appealing.

So, adding foreground interest isn't always a given. Instead, experiment a little, and if it works, great! If not, there's nothing wrong with taking a photo of the sky by itself.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Milky Way (in Simple English)
• Take Better Photos of the Stars With These Quick Tips

How Do I Avoid Star Trails?

Photos like the one above that show the movement of the stars in the sky are beautiful.

But sometimes you want to capture the scene like you see it - with sharp, pinpoint stars.

There are a variety of ways to go about doing this - some easy and some more complicated.

On the complicated end is to calculate the longest shutter speed you can use and still avoid capturing the movement of the stars.

This is called the 500 Rule, which states that dividing 500 by the focal length of your lens generates the longest shutter speed you can use.

So, if you're shooting with a 50mm lens, you'd have the following formula: 500/50 = 10 seconds.

It's simple math, so it isn't overly complicated, but there is a better way.

If you use a star-tracking mount like the Vixen Polarie shown above, you don't have to worry about math at all.

In fact, all you have to do is mount the Polarie to a standard tripod, and, in turn, mount your camera to the Polarie.

Then, with the included compass on the Polarie, orient it to face north and use the North Star alignment window to point at Polaris.

Once the Polarie is all set, it will track the movement of the stars in the night sky, thereby eliminating star trails.

The result will be a beautiful, star-filled night sky like the one shown above. It's easy-to-use, easy to setup, and anyone can use it to create gorgeous photos!

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount
• Quick Tips for Photographing the Full Moon or Supermoon

---

If you've never heard of a Super Blue Blood Moon Eclipse, you're not alone...

That's because for the first time in a century-and-a-half, this rare celestial event will occur on January 31, 2018, delighting stargazers with a supermoon, a blood moon, and a lunar eclipse, all at the same time.

That's a lot to absorb, right?

Here's your quick go-to guide for understanding exactly what a Super Blue Blood Moon Eclipse is.

Editor's Note: Need to get geared up for this month's Super Blue Blood Moon Eclipse? Visit MrStarGuy for all your astrophotography and astronomy gear needs. MrStarGuy has everything you need to observe and photograph the beauty of this rare event, from astro binoculars to telescopes, astrophotography mounts to tripods. Explore their inventory by clicking here.

As the video above from United News International explains, the first component is a blue moon, which occurs when there are two full moons in the same calendar month. The first one this month occurred on New Year's night.

Then, add to that a lunar eclipse, which occurs when the earth moves between the moon and the sun, casting the planet's shadow on the moon's surface.

Unlike their solar eclipse counterparts, lunar eclipses can bee seen anywhere on Earth, so long as it's night. Get more details on lunar eclipses in the video below from NASA:

The final component is a supermoon, which occurs when the moon's perigee (the point at which it's closest to earth) happens at the same time as a full moon. However, during a supermoon, casual observers might not even notice a difference in the moon's size, as it's perceived size is just 14 percent larger than normal, according to NASA.

Separately, none of these events are particularly rare. However, all three happening at the same time is definitely a rare show.

Learn More:

• Quick Tips for Photographing the Full Moon or Supermoon
• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky

As a result of all this lunar action, the moon will appear less bright than normal, with a reddish hue, thus the name "Blood Moon."

That red color is thanks to the way that the Earth's atmosphere bends light.

And while this beautiful astronomical event can be seen in many parts of the world, some will get a better show than others.

The best locations to see it will be those in the Pacific region, especially Australia, New Zealand, Indonesia, and the central and eastern parts of Asia.

Further west in India, the Middle East, and Europe, there will be less of a show, but skywatchers that wait for the moon rise will still be able to see part of the show.

Editor's Note: If this is your first foray into astrophotography, be sure to check out our Astrophotography section for tips, tricks, and tutorials that will help you get the highest quality shots. Our astrophotography partners at MrStarGuy offer our readers an excellent selection of gear at great prices. Add to that top-notch customer service, and you have a winning combination for learning how to take photos of the night sky with the right gear at the right price.

For those of us in the United States, the best viewing areas will be along the West Coast, the Rocky Mountain region, and the Midwest.

You have to be up early, though, as the best time for seeing the Super Blue Blood Moon Eclipse will be in the early morning hours.

In California, for example, the best viewing time is 4:51 am local time, at which point the total phase of the lunar eclipse will begin.

Skywatchers in the Rocky Mountain region will have to get up earlier, and be ready at 3:51 am local time when the eclipse begins.

Unfortunately, Americans living on the East Coast won't have as good a view. But that's okay - the next Super Blue Blood Moon Eclipse is less than 11 years away on December 31, 2028.

Editor's Tip: To get the best results of the Super Blue Blood Moon Eclipse, use a Vixen Polarie Star Tracking Mount to track the eclipse as it occurs. Just set up your camera to bracket the exposure and time lapse, then set the Polarie for a lunar rate. Once you have the Polarie set, it will track the entire eclipse, and all you need to do is check the exposure when it gets close to totality. Get all the details about this incredible astrophotography device right here.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Night Sky
• Astrophotography Tip: How to Manually Focus Your Lens

---

I don't think it's any secret that astrophotography can be a challenge.

I mean, on the one hand, it's a little more technical than traditional photography. But challenging yourself once in awhile is a good thing!

On the other hand, astrophotography can be challenging simply because it's hard not to be so enamored with what you see in the night sky that you forget to double-check things like camera settings, focus, and composition to ensure you get the best possible shot.

In this guideline, I'd like to offer up a few basic composition tips that will help you create better images of the night sky.

Editor's Note: Whether you're new to astrophotography or a seasoned veteran, if you need gear, MrStarGuy is the place to go. From telescopes to binoculars, astrophotography mounts to tripods, MrStarGuy has everything you need to capture the beauty of the night sky in stunning detail. Their competitive prices and commitment to customer service mean you get the gear you need without breaking the bank and with the peace of mind that you'll be supported after the purchase. Check out their complete line of products at MrStarGuy.com.

Use Leading Lines

Our eyes naturally follow lines, so it follows that if you include lines in your photos of the night sky, that the viewer's eyes will follow them.

It's a great way to direct the viewer's attention where you want their eyes to go. It also helps you create images that have a greater feeling of depth.

For example, the tree in the image above is an ideal leading line because it immediately grabs your attention and points your eyes toward the sky where they can gaze upon the star trails.

But the use of leading lines needn't be so obvious, either.

In this image, there's two leading lines that are much more subtle than in the previous photo.

One is the mountain, with its peak pointing toward the colors of the Northern Lights.

The other leading line is the man walking through the frame. Again, the verticality of his silhouette helps drive the eye upward toward the light show in the sky.

Learn More:

• Landscape Photography Composition Rules You Need to Start Using Today
• Quick Tips for Photographing the Full Moon or Supermoon

 

Remember the Rule of Thirds

The rule of thirds is probably the most well-known photography rule.

Yet, it's surprising to see so many photos of the night sky with the featured element smack dab in the middle of the frame, precisely where the rule of thirds says not to put the subject.

Now, there's something to be said about bending or breaking photography rules now and again, but more often than not, the rule of thirds will help you create a more dynamic and balanced shot.

In the image above, notice how the Milky Way is shifted to the left of center to more closely align with the rule of thirds. That helps balance out the visual weight of the trees on the right side of the shot.

In this image, the Milky Way is positioned in the middle of the frame.

However, because the man commands so much attention in the shot, it was more important to shift him off-center.

The result is an image that feels incredibly balanced and has a lot of depth - you almost feel like you're standing there behind the man gazing at the Milky Way in the distance.

Editor's Tip: One instance in which you might not adhere to the rule of thirds is when you fill the frame with a subject. This is sometimes the case when conducting deep sky astrophotography with a telescope, like a Newtonian Reflector Telescope. In the video above, you can see some examples of deep sky astrophotography that place the subject more in the middle of the frame. Because these objects have such incredible colors and textures, filling the frame with them still results in an eye-catching photo. Click here for more details about telescopes for astrophotography.

Learn More:

• Understanding the Rule of Thirds
• How to Photograph the Night Sky

Include Foreground Interest

When taking photos of things like the moon or the Milky Way, it's important to include foreground interest in the shot.

Why?

Two reasons...

First, including foreground elements helps give the image some context. In the image above, for example, having the illuminated tent in the foreground sets the stage for the vastness of space above it.

Second, elements like grass, the buildings, and the distant mountains in this shot add more interest to the photo.

This isn't to say that the stars in the sky are a boring subject; it's just that their beauty is enhanced by having other elements in the shot.

In that regard, each of these compositional tips is meant to ensure that you compose the most compelling image.

Great photos aren't great simply because they're of a beautiful subject.

Instead, you need to pay attention to the composition and framing of the shot so that you create a photo that represents that beauty to its fullest.

Editor's Tip: For more tips on improving your astrophotography and getting the right gear for your photos of the night sky, be sure to check out our astrophotography section. 

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Milky Way (in Simple English)

---

You can spend all kinds of energy planning astrophotography outings, getting the camera settings just right, gearing up with the right equipment to get the best shots, and so forth.

But if you don't know how to edit Milky Way photos and images of other celestial bodies, you're leaving a ton of possibilities on the table for improved photos.

In the video above by 52Things, a basic Lightroom workflow for editing your astrophotography is outlined.

With the quick and simple steps provided here, you can turn your so-so photos of the night sky into incredible works of art.

Follow along in the video above, and for a step-by-step overview, read on below!

Editor's Tip: Great astrophotography begins with having the right gear for the job. Get all the astrophotography gear you need.

Step 1: Begin Editing in the Develop Tab

^{YouTube Screenshot/52 Things}

After importing your image into Lightroom, the first task is to work on the image in the Develop Tab.

There are loads of tools in the Develop Tab that will help you build the image into something much more visually pleasing.

In the case of the image above, it's really dark, so increasing the exposure by shifting the exposure slider to the right is the first order of business.

As you can see in the screenshot, this one adjustment has already made the image much better.

YouTube Screenshot/52 Things

Other tools you can use to make a dull image pop is adjust the contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks.

In this case, increasing the contrast and whites while decreasing the blacks ever so slightly brings much more contrast to this photo.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Night Sky
• The Best Cameras for Beginner Astrophotographers

Step 2: Apply a Gradient, if Needed

YouTube Screenshot/52 Things

Unless you paint the foreground with light, you'll often find that after the first round of astrophotography post processing that the foreground is quite dark.

The easiest and most effective way to brighten foreground subjects in Lightroom is to apply a gradient.

At the top of the Develop Tab is the Gradient Tool. Just click it, then click on the image and drag to apply the gradient, as shown in the screenshot above.

But because it's a night photo, you need to make a few adjustments to keep the noise low.

That means reducing sharpness, noise, and clarity to prevent the noise in the image from getting out of control.

 

 

Step 3: Crop the Photo

YouTube Screenshot/52 Things

Though it's nice to get the composition and framing perfect in-camera, it doesn't always happen.

Besides, when you have a chance to look at your photos on a larger screen, you might see a better composition that you want to create by cropping.

Cropping in Lightroom is dead simple - just a matter of dragging the crop box over the image, fine-tuning the size and shape of the crop, and pressing enter.

In the example above, you can see how the crop has brought the people in the photo to the vertical midline and their heads more or less align with the bottom rule of thirds grid.

The result is a much more balanced photo that's starting to take shape as a much more impressive image.

Learn More:

• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky
• Take Better Photos at Night With These Simple Astrophotography Tips

Step 4: Tone the Highlights and Shadows

YouTube Screenshot/52 Things

You can add a little color and depth to your astrophotography by adding tones to the highlights and shadows.

This is done in the Develop Tab in the Split Toning Panel.

Just select colors using the color picker (as shown above) and Lightroom will apply those colors to the shadows and highlights, respectively.

The effect should be more subtle than anything - incorporating too many bright, saturated colors can make the image look overly processed.

Editor's Tip: To get clear, sharp stars like those seen in these example images, use a star tracking mount like the Vixen Polarie. Not only is the Polarie easy to use, but it's compatible with a wide range of cameras, from mobile phones to full frame DSLRs. Just orient the Polarie to the north, and once set, the Polarie will keep pace with the movement of the stars to eliminate star trails.

Final Thoughts

YouTube Screenshot/52 Things

As you can see in the final image above, with just a few key steps, this photo has been transformed from something that looked like a throwaway to something that's quite eye-catching.

Granted, there are plenty of other manipulations that one can make in Lightroom, but the point here is to outline the basic steps you can take to improve your astrophotography editing workflow.

Follow these guidelines the next time you're editing in Lightroom, and you will have all the tools you need to create jaw-dropping photos of the night sky!

Learn More:

• These Common Astrophotography Mistakes are Holding You Back
• How to Take Sharp Photos at Night

---

When most people see images like the one above, they likely think "gee, that looks hard to do."

And though it takes a good amount of planning and preparation, the right compositional choices, and the right gear, once you get the basic steps down, you might just be surprised at your ability to get breathtaking shots of the Milky Way.

In this tutorial, I offer up a step-by-step process for photographing the Milky Way.

Editor's Tip: To capture images of the night sky with ease, we suggest using the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker. This compact mount attaches to a standard tripod and can accept cameras that weigh up to seven pounds. You can orient the Polarie to face north using the included compass or by using a North Star Alignment window. You can use a polar scope for alignment as well. Once set, the Polarie tracks the motion of the stars which eliminates star trails. The result? Tack-sharp images of the night sky! Learn more about the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker at MrStarGuy.com.

Step 1: Plan Ahead

One of the factors to consider when photographing the Milky Way is the current lunar phase.

To get the clearest shots, you'll want minimal light pollution, so try to avoid shooting during a full moon.

Likewise, vantage points that are away from city light pollution will afford you the best chance of getting the clearest shots.

The Photographer's Ephemeris is a handy app for keeping tabs on the lunar cycle, and Dark Site Finder will help you find a nice, dark spot to set up your gear for your Milky Way photos.

Now, this isn't to say that you absolutely must have completely dark skies to get pleasing shots of the Milky Way.

If there's distant light pollution from a city or town, don't worry about it! In fact, if you can see the Milky Way with your own two eyes, the chances are good that you can get a solid picture with your camera.

You'll also want to check the weather forecast as you plan your Milky Way photo shoot.

Naturally, you'll need clear skies to maximize your view of the Milky Way, but don't be scared off by a few clouds here and there. In fact, some stray clouds can add drama to the shot.

I use the National Weather Service's website to get up-to-the-minute and accurate forecasts for my area.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Night Sky

Step 2: Consider the Composition

When you plan your Milky Way photo shoot, there's another factor to consider - the composition.

On the one hand, you can frame up a shot of nothing but the Milky Way, giving viewers an eyeful of the galaxy in a tightly framed shot.

As you can see in the image above, this type of Milky Way shot can be truly awe-inspiring.

On the other hand, you might also consider taking some shots in which you include some foreground interest from the landscape.

By adding foreground interest, you not only provide context to the shot, but you also provide a little bit of depth.

What's more, you can get a more dramatic shot by including foreground interest, particularly if you add a person to the frame, as seen above.

But don't just frame up the shot with foreground interest for the sake of doing it...

As with any photo, make sure that whatever is in the foreground - be that a person, a mountain peak, an interesting tree, or some other landscape feature - that it has a purpose, that it's balanced well with the Milky Way, and that it doesn't distract from the real focus of the shot, the sky above.

Step 3: Get the Gear

There are a few essentials you'll need for photos of the Milky Way.

First, you'll need a camera. Full frame cameras are most adept at nighttime photography because they have larger sensors and improved low-light shooting capabilities.

Models like the Nikon D850, the Canon 5DS, or the Sony A7S would be good choices.

However, all of those cameras are pricey, and not everyone has the budget to purchase one.

That being said, you can still capture nice images of the Milky Way with an APS-C or micro four-thirds camera.

What's essential, however, is that the camera has live view mode, manual exposure controls, a good ISO range (to at least ISO 3200), and the ability to change lenses.

Speaking of lenses, the faster the lens, the better.

In this sense, faster refers to the size of the lens' maximum aperture - the larger the aperture, the more light the lens collects and the faster the shutter speed you can use.

Ideally, if you have the budget, a f/1.2 lens would be the way to go, though f/1.4, f/1.8, f/2, and even f/2.8 will also do the trick. Naturally, the bigger the aperture, the bigger the price tag.

The focal length of the lens is really a matter of personal preference.

If you want wide, sweeping shots of the Milky Way and foreground elements, a wide-angle lens would be best.

If you want more intimate shots like the one above, a normal lens or telephoto lens would be advisable.

Just be sure that whatever lens you use, that it has manual focus controls. You'll have to manually adjust the focus to get the clearest, sharpest photo.

Finally, as I noted in the introduction, having a star tracker mount like the Vixen Polarie shown above comes in handy for tracking the movement of the stars to eliminate star trails.

The Polarie is easy to set up and operates on two AA batteries. It's stepping motors offer incredibly accurate movement as well. 

What's more, you can even get the Polaire bundled with a tripod, which is another essential piece of gear. 

Having a longer tripod not only enhances the stability of your camera as it takes photos of the Milky Way, but that extra bit of height can afford you improved views as well.

And since your shutter speeds will be quite slow, having your camera on a tripod will only help you get the sharpest images possible.

Check out some examples of astrophotography taken with the help of the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker in the video above by MrStarGuy.

For more details about the Polarie and the Polarie with tripod bundle, check the Learn More links below.

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount
• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount with Tripod

Step 4: Test Your Camera Settings

Now that you've gotten geared up and planned your shots of the Milky Way, now comes the time to execute the shot.

To begin, you'll need to turn your camera to Manual Mode (M), that way you have control over the camera's aperture, shutter speed, and ISO (you can also shoot in aperture priority, shutter priority, or program mode, should you desire). Set your aperture to the widest setting possible so you maximize its ability to collect light.

Also be sure your camera is set to record images in RAW format - not JPEG.

Set the focus to manual, crank up the ISO to 3200 or 6400 (at least to begin), and using live view (or the electronic viewfinder, if your camera is so equipped), set your focus on the Milky Way.

When setting your focus, choose a bright star in the Milky Way to serve as your focal point.

Using the zoom function on your LCD or viewfinder, magnify the image so you can see the star as large as possible. At that point, turn the focus ring on your lens until the star is tack-sharp.

Now that you've got the image focused, recompose the shot to include foreground elements as described earlier, if so desired.

Set your shutter speed to about 10 seconds and take a test shot. At this point, you're just trying to nail the composition, so don't worry too much about the exposure of the image.

Step 5: Finalize the Camera Settings and Take the Shot

Once the composition of the shot is to your liking, revisit your ISO setting and lower it to about 1600. The goal here is to use the lowest ISO possible so you can minimize the presence of digital noise in the shot.

Then check your shutter speed, perhaps trying a 15-second exposure first.

Check your light meter reading in your camera's viewfinder to see how you're doing with the exposure. If the meter is to the left of 0, you need to brighten the image by slowing the shutter speed or boosting the ISO. Conversely, if the light meter is to the right of 0, the image is too bright and needs a faster shutter speed or a lower ISO.

You'll need to experiment a little to get the ideal exposure. Just be sure you use your camera's LCD to zoom in on each shot to check it more closely for exposure and details. Continue to adjust as needed.

And with that, you have a step-by-step process to follow for taking tantalizing photos of the Milky Way!

Learn More:

• Explore Astrophotography Tips

---

There are plenty of ways to create incredible images of the night sky.

This includes stars that appear as pinpoints, star trails, and timelapse videos, just to name a few.

In this article, we offer an overview of these and other techniques you can use to photograph the night sky.

Editor's Tip: A great way to get started in astrophotography is to use a star tracker mount like the Vixen Polarie, which is compatible with any standard tripod and can accept any digital camera that weighs up to 7 pounds. The Polarie has a compass for orienting the mount to face north, a North Star alignment window for easier alignment, and can track the motion of the stars as they move across the sky to eliminate star trails. Learn more about the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount by visiting their website.

Pinpoint Stars and Star Trails

When deciding whether you will represent stars as points of light or as trails, think about what the scene offers in terms of visual interest.

For example, if there is a lot of interest in the foreground of the shot, pinpoint stars might be the way to go. That's because they offer a nice complement to the scene that doesn't overtake what's going on in the foreground.

To get pinpoint stars, you need special gear to track the stars as the earth moves, like the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount I recommended above. Watch a quick tutorial on how mounts like this work in the video below:

As far as camera settings go, start with an f-stop that's nice and wide, like f/1.2 or f/1.4 (or the widest your lens allows) and a shutter speed in the neighborhood of 20 seconds. If needed, increase the ISO to get a better exposure, bearing in mind, though, that the higher the ISO, the more noise that will be evident in the shot.

For a little extra drama, consider lighting the foreground of the shot by light painting with a flashlight or a headlamp.

To shoot light trails, you really only need a camera, a lens, a tripod, and a remote shutter release.

The rest is left up to the earth as it rotates on its axis, making the stars and other celestial bodies appear as though they're moving across the sky.

You can capture that movement by using your camera's bulb mode to take a long exposure image.

The length of the exposure will depend on several factors, perhaps most important of which is how long you want the star trails to appear.

Get a complete rundown of taking star trails images in the video below by Tony and Chelsea Northrup:

Editor’s Tip: To help facilitate long exposure astrophotography, we recommend using a photo guider for more accurate tracking. The Vixen Advanced Polaris (AP) Photo Guider is a lightweight star tracker that’s equipped with the Star Book One hand controller that gives you the ultimate in comfortable and precise operation. Using a moderate telephoto lens and the AP Photo Guider, you can snap images of Messier objects and other deep sky objects as well. Learn more about the AP Photo Guider by visiting MrStarGuy.com.

Timelapse Video of the Night Sky

One of the great things about digital photography is that it allows you to not only shoot traditional still photos and long exposures of the night sky, but you can also make timelapse videos that show the passage of time.

Some cameras come with a built-in interval timer that controls the time between exposures as well as the total number of photos that are taken in a pre-determined period of time. If your camera doesn't have a built-in intervalometer, you can pick one up without spending a ton of money.

Either way, the settings you enter into the interval timer determines how smooth the timelapse video appears. Naturally, the shorter the interval between each image, the smoother the movement will be.

Once you have your series of images, you use post-processing software like Quicktime Pro to create a timelapse video that shows each of the individual images in motion.

To get started with a timelapse video, you need to dial in appropriate exposure settings by using your camera's manual mode.

A good place to start is with an aperture around f/5.6 if the moon is full or f/2.8 if it isn't. Take a test shot using a shutter speed of about 10 seconds. Use the camera's LCD to zoom in on the image, looking to see if there is appropriate detail in the stars and the foreground of the shot.

Adjust the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO as needed to get a good overall exposure, being wary of using a shutter speed longer than about 20 seconds. Otherwise, star trails will become evident.

Once you have a well-exposed test image, set the interval between each image (around 30 seconds is a good place to start) and the duration for the shoot using the interval timer.

When the camera is taking the images, be careful not to move the camera or change any camera settings as any such changes will be noticeable in the timelapse video.

Adding Foreground Interest

As I mentioned earlier, if there's interesting elements in the foreground of your photos or timelapses of the night sky, it's worth taking measures to ensure that the detail contained therein is visible in the shot.

Having interesting elements in the foreground helps give the image context, added visual depth, and also offers a nice contrast to the expanse of stars in the background of the image.

You can incorporate foreground interest in many ways, including using a wide-angle or a fisheye lens, or by setting up your gear in such a way that you can frame the foreground interest into the shot.

If the moon is out in full force, your lens will likely be able to collect enough light to capture the detail of the foreground elements.

But if there isn't much moonlight, you can light up the foreground using any number of techniques.

As noted earlier, you can paint with light by using a flashlight to illuminate foreground elements.

You can also use a speedlight. To do so, press the speedlight's flash button while the camera's shutter is open, and move the light from one side of the scene to the other to light up the entirety of the foreground. For a more unique look, think about painting with light using your speedlight in short pops of light. To do so, simply press the speedlight's flash button several times over the course of the exposure.

You can use a constant light source as well. Again, while the shutter is open, move the light around the scene for the duration of the exposure.

No matter what type of light source you use, be sure to keep it moving so the image doesn't have hot spots.

Final Thoughts

When you first venture into astrophotography, it can be a bit of a scary proposition.

However, if you dedicate yourself to learning a few fundamentals, outfit yourself with the right gear, and practice the art of night photography, before long, you'll have the knowledge and skills to create breathtaking images like those above.

To get outfitted with astrophotography gear, be sure to visit our partner, MrStarGuy, for excellent deals on everything binoculars, telescopes, mounts, tripods, and more.

---

When you shoot photos during the day, the autofocus system on your camera is good enough to work like a charm in most instances.

Granted, it's not perfect, but the instances in which it isn't spot on are few and far between.

But shooting at night is another story...

Even the most sophisticated autofocus systems struggle to acquire focus at night or when shooting a dark scene. The question is how to take sharp photos at night.

Fortunately, there are quite a few things you can do to get the tack-sharp photos you're after.

Editor's Tip: New to astrophotography? Get all the latest tips and tricks in our astrophotography section, sponsored by our friends at MrStarGuy. If you need a tripod, a telescope, astro binoculars, or any other astrophotography gear, MrStarGuy - a family-owned business that treats you like a friend - is the place to do it!

How to Take Sharp Photos at Night: Manual Focus

Even if you have a camera with a superb autofocus system (like the Sony a7R III), it's still not good enough to acquire focus on its own at night.

That means that you need to take control of focusing and manually focus the lens to get the sharpest focus in your photos of the night sky.

I've explored manual focusing in detail in this post, but as a quick guideline, you simply need to do the following:

• Set your lens to manual focus
• Set the focus at infinity
• Enable live view
• Frame the shot, with the brightest object in the sky in the center of the frame
• Use live view to zoom in on the bright object
• Fine-tune the focus by manually adjusting the focus ring
• Take a test shot
• Inspect the results
• Lock the focus in place with gaffer's tape once the focus is spot on

 

This method might seem a little laborious, but the sharpness of the images you take certainly make all the effort worth it.

Besides, the more you practice, the faster you'll become at performing each step.

Check out a quick and simple overview of manually focusing your lens for astrophotography in the video above by Michael Coustier.

Refining Manual Focus for a Sharp Picture

As noted above, a good place to start with manual focusing is to set your lens at the infinity mark.

But there's a catch...

You can't just use the infinity mark on your lens because the marks on your cameras lens are seldom perfectly accurate.

That means you need to fine-tune the focus to get optimal results.

Zooming in using live view as described above is one way to get sharper focus.

Since you can't zoom in using the viewfinder, relying on the LCD panel on the back of your camera to get as close as possible to the target subject will help you zero in the focus with much better accuracy.

But there's another way to get a sharp picture at night...

If you can't seem to acquire focus on a star or other celestial body, you can often use a bright object that's much closer to get the focus right in your shots.

Whether that's the light emanating from a town far away, the lights on a building in the distance or something else of the sort, as long as it's far enough away (at least 100 feet) for your camera to focus at infinity, it will help you get the stars in the sky above in sharp focus, too.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Night Sky
• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky

Taking Photos in Low Light: How to Tell if Your Camera is Focused

When zooming in using live view and manually adjusting the focus ring, it can still be a little tough to tell if your focus is spot on.

Perhaps the easiest way to get a sharp picture is to inspect the size of the object on which you've focused.

If you're focusing on the brightest star in the sky, it should look like the head of a pin - like a clear, crisp dot that is virtually perfectly white.

If the star isn't in focus, you can tell by its color because it will appear green if the focus is in too far and magenta if it isn't focused enough.

This change in the color of the stars as they go in and out of focus is due to spherical aberration that's common in lenses with very large apertures.

This aberration is called spherochromatism, which causes the colors shifts I mentioned above in very high-contrast highlights that are out-of-focus.

When using live view to zoom in and check focus, simply check for these color changes and use them as a guide to hone the focus of the shot.

If you see green, focus in more. If you see magenta, bring the focus back. If you see bright white, you've got it, and should see better results when taking photos in low light.

Bonus Tip: How to Get Pinpoint Stars

Though images like the one above can be beautiful, when you want to avoid the movement of the stars and photograph them as sharp pinpoints, using a star tracking mount is the way to go.

These mounts, like the Vixen Polarie shown below, make it easy for anyone to photograph the night sky.

Just attach the mount to a standard tripod, attach your camera to the mount, and orient the mount to face north.

Once the Polarie is set, it will track the movement of the stars for you, and eliminate star trails.

The resulting images will show the night sky just as you see it - with gorgeous, bright stars that are sharply in focus.

The Polarie is easy to setup, easy to use, and can be used with any camera that weighs up to seven pounds. You can even use it with your smartphone! 

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount
• Take Better Photos of the Stars With These Quick Tips

---

The Universe and our own solar system have always been awe-inspiring subjects for those of us living on this little, blue planet.

Capturing images of what's "out there" is an undertaking that we've tried to perfect since the invention of the camera and we – as a race – have developed extremely sophisticated instruments and technologies with that in mind. We've even launched incredibly complex telescopes and cameras into near space and sent others to the outer reaches of our solar system to beam back photographs of our nearest planetary neighbors.

The field of astrophotography emerged as a result of human efforts to gather those images of the Heavens and what they hold.

Its definition is, simply, photographing astronomical objects and the night sky. That definition covers a lot of areas, and so does the field itself.

When you point your smartphone camera at the moon, you're practicing astrophotography, just like that lucky guy or gal with an observatory in the backyard. From wide shots of the Milky Way to close-ups of planets, comets and asteroids, all of these images fit into the field of astrophotography.

Because of its wide scope, terrestrial-based astrophotography is generally divided into three distinct categories.

Wide-Field Astrophotography

This category deals with images of the night (or pre-dawn or dusk) sky and the stars, planets and other objects visible in it. This type of photography requires little more than a camera, tripod, and patience, though a star-tracking mount is a great addition as well.

Wide-field images often include atmospheric phenomena such as the Aurora Borealis or Aurora Australis as well as the moon and/or landscape or architectural features. Star trail images also fall into this category.

In our collection of astrophotography articles, we'll touch on wide field photography techniques and some of the specialized equipment available, such as astronomy DSLRs, which can greatly enhance your astrophotography images.

Planetary Imaging

As the name implies, this category involves capturing images of individual planets. The reason it isn't referred to as planetary photography is due to the fact that images of planets and other celestial bodies are usually created from stills extracted from digital videos, then composited and enhanced.

As you might expect, this type of imaging requires a telescope with high enough magnification to let you locate a planet within the field of view, although many software applications exist that allow you to create stunning images from surprisingly small "blobs." It's also possible to adapt and use your DSLR to record the original videos, although specialized video recorders are available.

Deep Sky Astrophotography

Images of nebulae, other galaxies, and other distant bodies in outer space might be considered the pinnacle category of astrophotography. This type of imaging requires specific techniques, including extremely long exposures. As with the previous category, creating deep-sky images often involves stacking several long exposures to help reduce noise.

A good quality, powerful telescope, a stable mount, and a top-quality photo guider are, of course, a requirement for this type of imaging. A DSLR may be used to record the original images, with the proper adapters. Again, the use of an astronomical DSLR will greatly enhance images taken of distant celestial objects.

If you've ever dreamed of capturing those breathtaking images of what's hidden out there, beyond the range of our vision, keep exploring our astrophotography section to get tips on everything from composing your images to learning the right camera settings to getting geared up with astrophotography equipment.

---

The great thing about photographing the moon is that you have many chances each month to photograph it in its various phases.

That means that if you don't quite get the shot you want the first time you try, just give it another shot the next day.

Even the full moon gives you an opportunity each month to capture its beauty. On more rare occasions, you can even photograph a supermoon!

The question is, how do you go about photographing the moon?

In this tutorial, I offer up a few tips to help you do just that.

Editor's Tip:To photograph the moon, you can use a regular DSLR or mirrorless body and a zoom lens like a 70-300mm. That will give you a wide range of focal lengths for getting shots that include interesting foreground elements as well as tighter shots of the moon on its own. You'll need a sturdy tripod to give your camera and lens a stable base for capturing the sharpest images, and a tripod head for smooth movement. We recommend the Berlebach Two-Way Tilt Head (shown above) because it has a high load capacity as well as the ability to swivel in the vertical direction by 90-degrees on both sides. Friction is adjusted using a wheel opposite the clamping element, and the guide handle is mountable for both right-handed and left-handed shooters. It's versatile, too, so you can use it with a spotting scope or binoculars, in addition to your camera

Scout a Location

When photographing a full moon or supermoon, think about the type of image you want to create.

Naturally, if you want to fill the frame with the moon, you'll need a vantage point that offers an unobstructed view, as seen in the image above.

Close-ups of the moon offer the best view of its features and are perhaps the easiest to compose. Likewise, when adjusting your exposure settings, you have just one feature in the image to be concerned about, making it an easier shot from an exposure standpoint as well.

If you want to incorporate foreground elements into the shot, look for vantage points that allow you to include things like mountain peaks, trees, or other landscape features.

A wider shot like this requires that you work a little harder to get a well-exposed image.

That's because you'll have a wider dynamic range in the shot - from the very bright moon to darker foreground elements. If you expose for the moon, the foreground might be way too dark. Conversely, if you expose for the foreground, the moon might be far too bright.

An effective solution for this problem is to take multiple exposures - one exposed for the moon and one exposed for the foreground - and blend them together in a program like Photoshop or Lightroom.

When creating a composite, it is absolutely imperative that you do not move the camera. Otherwise, the two images won't line up perfectly.

Something else to think about when scouting a location is if you want to create a composite by taking two completely different images.

For example, perhaps you take a shot of the moon on its own and then go to another location to photograph a night landscape.

Then, in post-processing, you can combine the two images together. This helps get around the issues of dynamic range discussed above, and also allows you to highlight both the moon and the landscape in a single image.

If you choose to utilize this method, just be sure you shoot both images with the same focal length to make the process of compositing the images easier. It also generates a more realistic result.

Learn More:

• Get Geared Up for Viewing and Photographing the Moon and Other Celestial Objects
• Learn How to Create a Composite Lunar Image in Photoshop

Set the Exposure

When photographing the full moon or a supermoon, it's advisable to dial in the exposure settings manually. You don't necessarily have to use manual mode, either, as aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode, or program mode can be used as well.

When dialing in the settings, err on the side of underexposing the image, that way you can retain the detail of the moon's surface without blowing out the highlights.

To determine the best settings, use spot metering to get a reading off of the moon and take a few test shots with bracketed exposures to find which one best aligns with your vision for the shot. Granted, if you're going to create a composite image, meter off the moon for one shot and for the other shot, meter off the landscape.

When choosing a shutter speed, start with 1/15 seconds, choosing faster shutter speeds if necessary as the movement of the moon is quite fast.

Next, select an aperture, probably in the range of f/8 or f/11, and set the focus to infinity. Adjust the ISO as needed to fine-tune the exposure.

From there, it's a matter of taking the photo or multiple photos if you want to create a composite as described earlier.

To avoid camera shake, use a camera remote or the camera's built-in timer to take exposures without causing vibrations to the camera.

Remember, you'll need to do some experimentation with the camera settings to get the exposure just right, but if you follow these steps, you can get great shots of the full moon, supermoon, or its various phases.

Learn More:

• Understanding Manual Mode of a DSLR Camera
• Beginner Photography Tip: Advanced Camera Controls That Will Take Your Photos to the Next Level
• Best tool for photographing moon and stars

---

Sometimes the most difficult part of taking beautiful photos of the night sky is simply knowing where to begin.

That's where this tutorial comes in...

With the quick and easy tips outlined below, you'll get the pointers you need to start taking better shots of the stars sooner rather than later.

Let's get started!

Editor's Tip: Before you can take the best photos, you need the right astrophotography gear. Get geared up.

Use a Wide-Angle Lens

The wide angle of view afforded by a wide-angle lens means that you can incorporate more of the night sky into your photos, as well as the landscape beneath them.

Though you don't want to overwhelm the shot with too much detail, it's nice to be able to include elements that give the photo depth and context.

For example, in the photo above, the use of a wide-angle lens allowed the photographer to include much more foreground interest. That, in turn, gives the shot excellent dimension and depth.

Quick Tip: If you're in the market for a solid wide-angle lens, a 24mm f/1.4 is tough to beat. 

But as with any photography rule of thumb, you have to be willing to make exceptions.

Just because wide-angle lenses are great for this type of photography doesn't mean that you can't try other types of lenses.

As you can see above, a tightly-framed shot with a telephoto lens can produce gorgeous results as well.

Learn More:

• Astrophotography Gear: The Essentials
• Astrophotography Tip: How to Manually Focus Your Lens

 

 

Use the 500 Rule for Sharp Stars (or Get a Star Tracker Mount)

 

To get clear, pinpoint stars like those that you see in the image above, you have to figure out what shutter speed you can use without getting star trails.

The 500 rule stipulates that if you divide 500 by the focal length of your lens, that you'll get an exposure time that will get you pinpoint stars.

So, using our recommended 24mm lens, the equation would be: 500/24 = 20.83.

That means that with a 24mm lens, you can dial in a shutter speed of up to about 20 seconds and still get sharp photos.

An even easier way to get pinpoint stars is to use a star tracker mount, like the Vixen Polarie shown above.

This rig is purpose-built to help you get high-quality photos of the night sky because it's incredibly easy to setup and use.

Just mount the Polarie to any standard tripod, and in turn, mount any camera weighing up to seven pounds to the Polarie.

Then use the included compass to orient the mount to face north or use a polar scope for alignment.

Once the Polarie is in position, it will track the movement of the stars across the sky for you. That means you get pinpoint stars without having to mess about with the 500 rule!

Editor's Tip: It's easy to get pinpoint stars. Find out how right here.

Use a Remote or the Camera's Self-Timer

Since you need long exposures to get photos at night, that means that your camera is susceptible to camera shake.

Camera shake occurs when the vibrations you cause by pressing the shutter button result in a blurry photo.

If you remove that element of touching the camera from the equation, you'll get sharper photos as a result.

Just about every camera has a built-in timer that allows you to select from a variety of short delays.

Even a two-second delay should be enough time to let any vibrations calm down before the shot.

But for better results, it's best not to touch the camera at all.

Do do that, you need a camera remote.

You can pick up inexpensive remotes for less than $10 on Amazon, so it's not a huge investment of money to get one.

Even if you opt for something a little more spendy, the results will be worth it!

Editor's Tip:

• Find a Remote for Your DSLR
• Astrophotography Gear: Optional Equipment

Final Thoughts

As I noted in the introduction, sometimes all you need to get going are a few simple tips.

The tips outlined above will get you started on the right foot and help you get improved photos of the night sky.

For additional tricks to improve your astrophotography, check out the video above by Mango Street.

In addition to the instructions I've provided above, they offer hints on how to focus your shots, get sharper images, and camera settings to use, among other things.

---

If you ask me, the night sky is one of the most beautiful subjects you can photograph.

The problem is conveying that beauty in the photos you take - it's a process that can be easier said than done at times.

However, astrophotography doesn't have to be overly complex or intimidating.

In fact, there are a number of quick and easy ways you can improve your photos of the stars.

Use a Fast Lens

A photography term that causes a lot of confusion for beginners is "fast lens."

Though a "fast lens" might indicate that it can achieve very quick shutter speeds, the term actually refers to the lens's aperture.

That is, a very wide aperture, like f/1.2, opens the aperture blades and lets in tons of light.

Since the lens can collect so much light, that means you can use a faster shutter speed in return, thus the term "fast lens."

But a fast lens offers you further benefits as an astrophotographer.

For starters, the large aperture opening allows your camera to capture light from even the most distant stars. The result is a sky full of twinkling light.

Additionally, a fast lens allows your camera to capture that light in a shorter period of time, which helps in eliminating star trails (more on that next).

A standard kit lens opens up to f/3.5 at its shortest focal length, and you can get adequate results with that.

But if you really want to improve the lightness and brightness of the starry sky, upgrade to a lens with a larger aperture like f/2 or f/1.8 at the least.

Learn More:

• Astrophotography Gear: The Essentials
• Astrophotography Tip: How to Manually Focus Your Lens

Get a Star Tracking Mount

As noted in the previous section, a fast lens helps eliminate star trails, resulting in photos like the one above in which you see tack-sharp, pinpoint stars.

But to really make that a possibility, you need a star tracking mount.

The Polarie Star Tracker Mount shown below allows you to orient your camera to the north, and once set, it will track the motion of the stars as they move across the night sky.

But don't think that that's the only advantage of a star tracking mount...

Mounts like the Polarie are quick to setup - it attaches to a standard camera tripod and accepts any digital camera that weighs up to seven pounds.

Heck, you can even use it with your smartphone!

Additionally, the Polarie is easy to use, too. You can orient it to face north with the included compass, the North Star alignment window, or you can use it in conjunction with a polar scope for alignment as well.

In other words, this rig has all the features you need to step up your astrophotography game.

But don't take my word for it - check out the video above for sample images captured when using a Polarie.

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Polarie Star Tracker Mount
• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky

Processing Your Images is a Must

The raw, untouched images captured by your camera can be quite impressive, especially if you've put in the time and effort to plan your nighttime photo shoot and compose your images to have maximum impact.

However, even the nicest looking untouched images can be brought to life with post-processing.

Using a program like Photoshop or Lightroom, you can fine-tune your photos of the night sky such that the light of the stars pops.

Likewise, you can make adjustments to levels, curves, white balance, contrast, and so forth to give your images a more vibrant and colorful appearance.

You can even use post-processing programs to create panoramas, focus stack images, and other complex tasks.

For a beginner's tutorial on Photoshopping your photos of the night sky, check out the video above by AstroBackyard.

And with that, you have three rock-solid and easy tips to integrate into your astrophotography workflow that will help you maximize the visual appeal of your photos of the stars.

Learn More:

• These Common Astrophotography Mistakes are Holding You Back
• How to Photograph the Milky Way (in Simple English)

---

When getting outfitted with a camera for astrophotography, some beginners look at things like price above all else.

And while your budget is certainly an important consideration, so too are the features the camera offers for maximizing your ability to get high-quality nighttime shots.

With that in mind, I've put together this quick overview of some of the features to look for as well as a short list of the best cameras for beginner astrophotographers.

ISO Performance

A good astrophotography camera needs to have certain functionalities in order to get you the results you want.

Primary among them is good ISO performance, which needs to be considered on two different points.

First, the camera needs to have a high ISO range, that way you can increase the sensitivity of the sensor in the absence of light.

Many cameras today - even entry-level models - have native ISO ranges up to 12800, 25600, and even higher.

But it's important not to get caught up in just the ISO range that's available.

Instead, you need a camera that performs well at high ISOs too. That is, the camera should be able to create images at higher ISOs with minimal noise.

The less noise the camera produces, the cleaner the images will be. What's more, a camera with noise reduction further allows you to get cleaner shots even at higher ISOs.

Battery Life, Vibration Control, and Articulating LCD

An additional feature to look for in an astrophotography camera is battery life.

Though Sony puts out some excellent mirrorless camera bodies, their battery life is notoriously short, so they aren't ideal for astrophotography.

Likewise, mirror vibration control is a handy feature to have to ensure sharper images. An articulating LCD is another feature to consider, as it enables you to more easily check your framing and composition, even when the camera is positioned at a steep angle towards the sky.

Editor's Tip: A crucial accessory for astrophotography is a solid tripod to give your camera a stable base. Shop for high-quality astrophotography tripods and other accessories at MrStarGuy.

Construction

The build quality of the camera is another factor that you must consider.

First, you don't want to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a camera that isn't built to last. Granted, your camera won't be with you forever, but you want it to be constructed such that you get five or more years of good use out of it.

Second, since astrophotography is a night pursuit and requires you to be outdoors for long periods of time, you want a camera that can stand up to cold temperatures and inclement weather like rain or snow.

That means looking for a camera body that's weather-sealed to protect it against the elements.

Learn More:

• Astrophotography Gear: The Camera
• Astrophotography Gear: The Essentials

Suggested Cameras for Astrophotography

There is a long, long list of cameras that are well-suited for photography out of the box, or are good candidates for astrophotography.

However, I've narrowed the list down to three models, each at a different price point. All three offer good ISO performance, low noise for long exposures, great battery life, and good build quality.

For Big Budgets: Nikon D810

Though the Nikon D810 has since been replaced by the Nikon D850, it's still an excellent camera, and now that it's an older model, it can be found much cheaper, too. As of this writing, a new Nikon D810 runs around $2,800 for the body, compared to around $3,300 for a D850.

It's a full frame camera, which means it has a larger sensor and has improved low-light performance that translates into photos that are cleaner with less noise.

Other specs include:

• 36.3-megapixel full frame CMOS sensor
• Native ISO to 12800 (expandable to 51200)
• 3.2-inch LCD with 1.229-million dots
• 51-point autofocus systemWeather-sealed body

Nikon also makes a D810a, which is specifically designed for astrophotography.

The D810a's sensor is more sensitive to H-alpha red tones by a factor of 4, meaning it can capture celestial bodies like nebulae with much more sharpness, detail, and dynamic range.

It has an electronic front curtain shutter as well, which helps eliminate vibrations. This is especially handy when taking long exposures.

That being said, a normal Nikon D810 will be more than sufficient for a beginner astrophotographer.

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Nikon D810

 

For Mid-Range Budgets: Canon EOS 6D

Like the Nikon D810, the Canon EOS 6D is an older full frame camera with excellent low-light performance that you can find brand new for around $1,000.

For that price, you get just about all the must-have features you need for astrophotography, including:

• 20.2-megapixel full frame CMOS sensor
• Native ISO to 25600 (expandable to 102800)
• 3-inch LCD with 1.04-million dots
• 11-point autofocus system sensitive to -3EV
• Weather-sealed body

Clearly, the 6D's sensor isn't quite what the D810 offers, and its LCD isn't quite as large or resolute. However, for $1,800 less than the D810, you get a full frame sensor, a huge expanded ISO range, and a weather-sealed body.

The 6D also has built-in Wi-Fi and GPS, an electronic level to help you get the horizons perfectly straight, and a DIGIC 5+ image processor that makes quick work of in-camera processing tasks.

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Canon EOS 6

For Budget-Minded Buyers: Pentax K-S2

An excellent budget-friendly option for astrophotography is the Pentax K-S2.

Unlike the previous two recommendations, the K-S2 is a crop sensor camera, meaning it has a smaller sensor than the D810 and 6D.

However, the Pentax lacks an anti-aliasing filter, which results in sharper images. It also has excellent ISO performance, with the highest native ISO capabilities of the bunch.

Additionally, the Pentax features:

• 20-megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor
• Native ISO to 51200
• 3-inch fully articulating LCD with 921,000 dots
• 11-point contrast-detect and phase-detect autofocus system
• Weather-sealed body

Furthermore, because the K-S2 is a crop sensor camera, it weighs less and has a smaller form factor than the other two cameras on this list.

That could be a bonus for photographers that want something that's easier to carry or who are looking for a camera that can pull double-duty as a small, yet capable everyday camera.

Learn More:

• Get the Specs and Pricing on the Pentax K-S2

Editor's Tip: No matter what camera you use, maximize your ability to capture gorgeous photos of the night sky by using an astrophotography mount like the Vixen Polarie. Compatible with any camera that weighs up to seven pounds, the Polarie will track the motion of the stars to eliminate star trailing. It's also easy to use and setup and is designed to function in most weather conditions. Learn more about the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker Mount.

---

Let's face it - photography is difficult to master.

And astrophotography, well, that's a tough cookie, too.

But just because it's difficult doesn't mean that with practice you can't master the art of photographing the night sky.

There are some common astrophotography mistakes to avoid, however, if you're going to reach your potential.

Editor's Tip: Part of becoming a master astrophotographer is having the proper tools. We highly recommend MrStarGuy for all your astrophotography needs. With a wide selection of telescopes, tripods, mounts, and other accessories, it's your one-stop shop for everything you need. Visit MrStarGuy to learn more.

Mistake #1: Forgetting to Change the Camera Settings

When you get your gear setup and you begin the process of framing the shot and getting it in focus, you need to use different camera settings than what you use for the actual exposure.

For example, when adjusting the focus, many astrophotographers use a very high ISO to shorten the exposure time so they can inspect the focus faster.

Unfortunately, some astrophotographers also forget to readjust the ISO for the actual shot, which renders their images too bright and full of noise.

Aperture can also cause a few problems for night photography.

If you shoot during the day, you'll likely use a much smaller aperture than you'd use at night given the abundance of light during daytime hours.

But if you forget that you switched the aperture from the desired nighttime setting, the first shot you take of the stars could very well be an underexposed mess.

Though these seem like silly errors, photographers of all skill levels make them from time to time.

Just be sure that when you're setting up for your nighttime shots that you take a few seconds to get your camera settings lined out, and you'll avoid this problem.

Learn More:

• Astrophotography Tip: How to Manually Focus Your Lens
• How to Compose a Killer Shot of the Night Sky

Mistake #2: Not Using the Ideal Aperture

To build off the previous point, some astrophotographers mistakenly believe that using the largest aperture their lens allows will give them the best shot because it allows the most light into the lens.

The problem is that no lens performs its best at its maximum aperture.

That is, if you have a lens that opens up to f/1.4, the lens will not be able to produce as sharp an image at f/1.4 as it can at f/2, f/2.8, and so on.

All zoom lenses have a sweet spot - the ideal aperture for sharpness - which is typically around f/8 or f/11. Using that small of an aperture could create problems with the exposure of a nighttime shot, though.

So, the next best thing is to step your aperture down by one or two stops.

The reduction in light that results from doing so is a worthy trade-off for working at an aperture that gets you sharper results.

Editor's Tip: The aperture you use isn't the only factor in whether your photos of the stars are tack-sharp. To account for the rotation of the earth, you need a star tracking device like the Vixen Polarie Star Tracker (shown above), which eliminates star trails and helps you get images with gorgeous pinpoint stars. It's easy to setup, easy to use, and is compatible with any digital camera weighing up to seven pounds - including your mobile phone! Click here to learn more about the Vixen Polarie.

When discussing manual exposure settings for astrophotography, there are really no hard-and-fast settings because each situation is different.

However, when getting set up, consider the following as a guideline for where to start with your exposure settings:

• Shooting mode - Manual
• Aperture - f/2.8
• Shutter speed - Will vary, though you can dial in up to 30 seconds on your camera, or use Bulb Mode for longer exposures.
• ISO - 1600 or below

Again, these are not settings that will work in every situation, but it's at least a good starting point from which you can fine-tune things for your specific needs.

Learn More:

• Get Sharper Photos by Finding the Sweet Spot of Your Lens
• How to Photograph the Milky Way (In Simple English)

Mistake #3: Poor Planning

As my dad used to say, "prior planning prevents poor performance."

If you want to create the best astrophotography images, you need to be willing to invest a lot of time and effort into the process, especially the part where you plan things out.

The less time you spend planning, the more time you'll spend wandering around trying to find a spot to take your photos.

What's more, if you don't take the time to actually learn how to use your gear (i.e., manually focusing your lens), then any time you save skipping those steps ahead of time will be spent getting frustrated in a dark field somewhere because you don't know what you're doing.

Along those same lines, if you don't understand when the sun sets, when it rises, the phases of the moon, weather patterns, and so forth, you might find yourself setting up in the dark, setting up too late to capitalize on the darkest hours of the night, or under the cover of clouds.

Naturally, none of these situations is conducive to astrophotography...

The point is that capturing gorgeous shots of the night sky isn't only dependent on your skill as a photographer and the gear you use.

Instead, a large part of your success will be determined long before you even set up your camera in the planning phase.

By having a solid plan in place, outfitting yourself with quality gear, and paying attention to your camera settings, you'll be able to minimize at least three common mistakes astrophotographers make and improve your chances of getting great shots of the stars.

Learn More:

• How to Photograph the Night Sky
• Quick Tips for Photographing the Full Moon or Supermoon

---

By NASA, ESA, and M. Livio and the Hubble 20th Anniversary Team (STScI) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons 

Taking photos of celestial bodies is no small feat.

Well, taking good photos of celestial bodies, anyway...

But NASA sure has perfected that art.

Then again, they have the best tools in the business, including the aging, but still pretty darn good Hubble Space Telescope.

Over the years, Hubble has captured some pretty amazing images.

Here are just a few that are sure to knock your socks off.

Editor's Note: To see celestial objects, we suggest visiting MrStarGuy to purchase your optics. MrStarGuy has a complete line of scopes, including reflector and refractor models, as well as grab and go scopes, astro binoculars, mounts, tripods, and so much more. As a family-operated company, MrStarGuy is dedicated to providing the best in optics along with the best possible customer service. Visit MrStarGuy today to get outfitted!

The Sunflower Galaxy

By NASA/ESA - The Hubble Legacy Archive (HLA): Space Telescope Science Institute (STScI), the Space Telescope European Coordinating Facility (ST-ECF), and the Canadian Astronomy Data Centre (CADC) - zoranknez (Aladin software) (Hubble Space Telescope) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Also known as M63, the Sunflower Galaxy was first discovered by Pierre Mechain in 1779.

It was one of the first galaxies identified that have the signature spiral structure that you can see in the image above, taken with the Hubble Space Telescope.

Its arms are made up of new blue-white giant stars, and some astronomers believe that there is a supermassive black hole at its center.

I Zwicky 18

By NASA, ESA, and A. Aloisi (Space Telescope Science Institute and European Space Agency, Baltimore, Md.) (HubbleSite: NewsCenter) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Its name isn't the only strange thing about this galaxy...

For starters, I Zwicky 18 is a dwarf irregular galaxy, meaning it doesn't have a distinct or regular shape.

It also demonstrates some odd star development.

It's a relatively young galaxy at about one billion years old, yet some of its stars develop in a manner that's more typical of galaxy formation in the earliest days of the universe.

Whatever the case, it wasn't until 1930 that it was discovered by Fritz Zwicky.

Crab Nebula

By NASA, ESA, J. Hester and A. Loll (Arizona State University) (HubbleSite: gallery, release.) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

This composite image from the Hubble Space Telescope is actually 24 separate images put together.

What it shows is a supernova remnant in the Taurus constellation. The supernova exploded almost 1,000 years ago, an event that was recorded by Chinese and Japanese astronomers at the time.

And if you're wondering why it's named the crab nebula, it's because William Parsons, Third Earl of Rosse made a drawing of it after observing it with a 36-inch telescope in 1840. His drawing resembled - you guessed it - a crab.

Carina Nebula

By NASA & ESA, Jesús Maíz Apellániz (Centro de Astrobiología, CSIC-INTA, Spain) (http://www.spacetelescope.org/images/heic1601a/) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

The Carina Nebula is an interesting structure because it is so large and complex. It's actually one of the largest diffuse nebulae in the galaxy.

Within its area are open clusters, O-type stars, Wolf-Rayet stars-Rayet stars, and huge star clusters as well. 

In fact, Trumpler 14 (shown above), one of the nebula's star clusters, is home to the most luminous star in the Milky Way, named WR 25.

By NASA, ESA, and M. Livio and the Hubble 20th Anniversary Team (STScI) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Another part of the nebula, Mystic Mountain (shown above), is a dust-gas pillar that measures three light years in height.

The huge peaks that resemble mountaintops are created when nascent stars release gas, which streams outward to form the peaks.

This image was taken by the Hubble Space Telescope on its 20th anniversary in February 2010.

Whirlpool Galaxy

By NASA and European Space Agency [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

As you can see in the image above, the Whirlpool Galaxy is very aptly named, given its classic spiral shape. That shape is most likely due to the interaction of the galaxy with its neighbor, NGC 5195, shown upper right in the image above.

Aside from being spectacularly beautiful, the Whirlpool Galaxy is also home to a number of black holes as well as three supernovae.

It's also one of the most easily observed galaxies, and can even be seen with binoculars.

Pillars of Creation

By Credit: NASA, Jeff Hester, and Paul Scowen (Arizona State University) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

One of Hubble's most well-known photographs is this one of the Pillars of Creation in the Eagle Nebula, taken way back on April 1, 1995.

The pillars are comprised of interstellar gas and dust that are in the midst of creating new stars.

Interestingly, as they create new stars, the pillars are also being destroyed by the light from recently-formed stars nearby.

This photo is a composite of 32 different photos from four different cameras on the Hubble.

The green areas are hydrogen, the red is singly-ionized sulfur, and the blue indicates double-ionized oxygen atoms.

Westerlund 2

By NASA, ESA, the Hubble Heritage Team (STScI/AURA), A. Nota (ESA/STScI), and the Westerlund 2 Science Team [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

An obscured compact young star cluster, Westerlund 2 is home to some of the brightest, hottest stars as yet discovered.

The cluster is about 1-2 million years old, and wasn't even discovered until the 1960s by Bengt Westerlund.

So far, astronomers have identified more than a dozen early O stars and a number of Wolf-Rayet Stars within the cluster.

The image above was taken by the Hubble Space Telescope in honor of its 25th anniversary in 2015.

Editor's Note: If these images have sparked an interest in astrophotography, check out our astrophotography section for how-to guidelines for taking photos of the night sky. Be sure to visit our friends at MrStarGuy to get outfitted with all the necessary astrophotography gear, too. A top recommendation is their Vixen Polarie Star Tracker. This compact, yet highly functional mount attached to a normal tripod and can be used with cameras that weigh seven pounds or less. Using the included compass, a North Star Alignment Window, or a polar scope, you can orient the Polarie to face north. Once it's set, the Polarie will track the stars as they move across the sky, eliminating star trails and allowing you to take images of pinpoint stars. Learn more about this and other astrophotography gear at MrStarGuy.

---