Your camera is not trying to expose for the brighter part of your setting. The camera is exposing for an 18% gray. It it's in spot meter mode, whatever is in the spot will be exposed as an 18% gray. If it's center weighted, it will use that for 18% gray. Matrix metering is a little different. The camera reads however many zones it's capable of and compares it to a data bank and tries to match a file in the data bank to the readings it has, and the camera has a setting for that matched data file which it will use. If you are shooting manual, then yes you can adjust the settings to the correct exposure without compensation. You just use your meter to under and over expose the required number of stops. If in one of the Auto Modes exposure compensation is the quickest and best way to adjust the exposure. The camera gives you it's best estimate of correct exposure, not necessarily the correct exposure. Examples: if you shoot snow or something very bright, the camera will expose that to look 18%gray. Correct exposure would need to be 1.5 to 2 stops more light or in other words more exposure compensation. If you are shooting something very dark like black or navy, the camera will still try to make it look 18% gray, thus requiring less light or a minus exposure compensation to make the correct exposure and to make the image look correct. Modern systems are pretty good, but they are not perfect or 100% correct.Cory J wrote: Okay, I'm nearly lost and could use some help here. I get that my camera will try to expose for the brighter part of my setting. What I don't understand is the purpose of exposure compensation. If you take the photo, and it's bright or dark, why not just take the shot with the proper shutter speed set vs using exposure compensation?
Joves wrote: I find that my Nikons over expose in bright lighting conditions, or at least they do to me in the programmed modes.
garyrhook wrote:
Joves wrote: I find that my Nikons over expose in bright lighting conditions, or at least they do to me in the programmed modes.
I don't blindly trust the meter. I take test shots and use the zebra feature to see what gets blown out. But that's in manual mode.
I did not know about zeroing the meter. That's kinda cool, if you know what you're doing.
Joves wrote:
I agree. Also with Nikon cameras you can use the EC to zero the meter at a given over, or under exposure. I am not sure if the Canons do this. I found out the hard way when I used EC the only time I used it in Aperture, and then went back to Manual. I find that my Nikons over expose in bright lighting conditions, or at least they do to me in the programmed modes.
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