on whatfall what do you set the iso too and the shutter speed? i used iso at 100

13 years 1 month ago #34517 by luckywish1
on waterfall what do you set the iso to? i had mine set to iso 100 and what do you set the shutter speed to on a waterfall?


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13 years 1 month ago #34522 by Kip
Depends on the speed of the water flowing, the amount of ambient light, the aperture of lens being used.....with f/4,@ iso 100 I used 1 second for medium flowing water. Definitely need a tripod, and may need ND filter depending on light and lens speed used.


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13 years 1 month ago #34645 by tennis man
settings will depend on the light that is available and how you want to capture the shot.


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13 years 1 month ago #34683 by luckywish1
the waterfall was going pretty fast too and i thought if you have the camera on auto it would catch it all at the time. and find out after i got home the picture didnt turn out that good and it got me kind of depress about the picture


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13 years 1 month ago #34696 by luckywish1
this waterfall the iso was at iso 100 and the exposure time 1/160 and f stop was at f 7 i think


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13 years 1 month ago #34727 by D5000

luckywish1 wrote: the waterfall was going pretty fast too and i thought if you have the camera on auto it would catch it all at the time. and find out after i got home the picture didnt turn out that good and it got me kind of depress about the picture


Taking a picture of a waterfall, you will catch every time. Unless the waterfall ran out of water. Never become depress, just get better.


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13 years 1 month ago #34769 by Joves

luckywish1 wrote: this waterfall the iso was at iso 100 and the exposure time 1/160 and f stop was at f 7 i think


Well at 160 you will freeze the action more than blur it. First you need to close up the aperture more like to the maximum if you are not using a polarizer or ND filter. Stopping down will force a slower shutter speed to get the exposure correct. You can then adjust from there. The best advice I can give is to take several shots at differing f-stops at various shutter speeds. You will then learn how ISO, shutter speeds and aperture work in capturing images. Back in the film days I used to keep a notebook and log the settings for each and every shot, now with digital the camera does it for you in the EXIF data.


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13 years 1 month ago #34776 by Cjarvis

luckywish1 wrote: the waterfall was going pretty fast too and i thought if you have the camera on auto it would catch it all at the time. and find out after i got home the picture didnt turn out that good and it got me kind of depress about the picture


Get off auto its more fun that way :)


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13 years 1 month ago #34802 by chasrich
Shucks! I was thinking the A on my selector was for amateur... I understand now it means Auto... Sheesh! ;)

“Amateurs worry about equipment, professionals worry about money, masters worry about light, I just make pictures… ” ~ Vernon Trent
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13 years 1 month ago #34806 by Rob pix4u2
Penny set your aperture at f 22, your shutter speed at 1/30th sec or slower, and have the camera on your tripod to start . then experiment a bit with slower shutter speeds out to 1 or 2 seconds. All of this is done on manual. Good luck and happy Shooting !

Remember to engage brain before putting mouth in gear
Rob Huelsman Sr.
My Facebook www.facebook.com/ImaginACTIONPhotography

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13 years 1 month ago #34812 by Yasko
If you're looking for feathered looking water, you'll generally need at least 1/4 second shutter, preferably much slower than that even. I'd set the camera to aperature mode, close down the aperature as much as possible, and see what your shutter gets to. A tripod is a must. Keep your ISO as low as possible. Does the t2i have iso expansion? Some canons have an expansion feature that let's you go to 50 (usually denoted as "L"). If your camera can do this, it's what I'd set it to.


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13 years 1 month ago #34852 by luckywish1
i dont know if my camera has the f 22 on it but i will look tonight on it and see if it goes that high


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13 years 1 month ago #34853 by luckywish1
i havent tried my polarizer or my gradutation filter yet and i will keep trying until i am happy with my photo


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13 years 1 month ago #34856 by Pops
Penny, the replies you have received so far are spot on for blurring the water, which is what your eye sees. This gives you the most realistic view of the fall. This is the view most people will relate to when they look at your photograph. However, if you want to stop the individual drops of water (as you mentioned on the phone tonight,) you have to go the other way. Fast moving things take big shutter numbers and small f:stops to freeze in action.

Remind me after the Japanese gardens opens this Spring and we will go out and play with the waterfall there.

Pops


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13 years 1 month ago #34857 by Yasko

luckywish1 wrote: i dont know if my camera has the f 22 on it but i will look tonight on it and see if it goes that high


Aperature range is a function of the particular lens you have, not the camera. I just checked the specs for the lenses you've listed on your profile.

Your 55-250 lens will go up to f32, but only when zoomed to 250mm. Not useful for waterfalls.

Your 18-55 goes up to f36 when set to 55mm. You may not get particularly sharp results at such a closed down aperature (this is called diffraction blurring), but the images should still be quite useable. This is the lens I'd use to get your shutterspeed as slow as possible for running water :thumbsup:


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