135 Mark wrote: Not that I'm aware of; remember that today's DSLRs aren't meant to be manually focused. They lack the split-prism type focusing screen typical of film bodies, and the viewfinder of an APS-C type camera is rather dark compared to that of a full-frame camera. You can buy add-on split-prism style focusing screens which supposedly help, but I have not tried them.
Your best bet will be to focus slowly and carefully, finding a section of the scene where you can most easily tell if it's in focus (text on a sign), focus past, and then back on to the subject.
Moose 5 wrote: Do you have the AF-assist feature turned on? Are you using the center focus point (it's the only one that's a cross-type focus point)?
Turn the lens manual focus ring and go from unfocused, through focused, to beyond focus. Watch the in-focus indicator in the viewfinder out of the corner of your eye as you slowly turn the lens focus ring back to focus.
Having the focal point lit helps a lot. Even human eyes have difficulty focusing in low light, for the same reasons cameras have trouble, low contrast.
The tado wrote:
135 Mark wrote: Not that I'm aware of; remember that today's DSLRs aren't meant to be manually focused. They lack the split-prism type focusing screen typical of film bodies, and the viewfinder of an APS-C type camera is rather dark compared to that of a full-frame camera. You can buy add-on split-prism style focusing screens which supposedly help, but I have not tried them.
Your best bet will be to focus slowly and carefully, finding a section of the scene where you can most easily tell if it's in focus (text on a sign), focus past, and then back on to the subject.
Really, cameras are not meant to be manual focus? That's news to me, it seem every camera Nikon comes out with is manual focus and the only way auto focus work is if you have a lens with a auto focus motor in it.
Screamin Scott wrote: What you are not taking into account is, is the fact that with the advent of auto focus, lenses no longer have a long focus throw (number of turns of the focus ring to get from closest focus to infinity). They did away with that so the AF motor doesn't have to work as hard (& it works faster as well with the shorter focus throw) . Older manual focus lenses are able to be more precisely focused with their longer throw. Couple that with the fact that the focusing screens are optimized for AF operation as well & it becomes difficult to accurately manually focus an AF lens. You have to rely on the internal rangefinder (green dot) to acquire proper focus. That or else do what I do & that is to use older manual focus lenses along with having changed out my focus screen to a split image model...
The tado wrote:
135 Mark wrote: Not that I'm aware of; remember that today's DSLRs aren't meant to be manually focused. They lack the split-prism type focusing screen typical of film bodies, and the viewfinder of an APS-C type camera is rather dark compared to that of a full-frame camera. You can buy add-on split-prism style focusing screens which supposedly help, but I have not tried them.
Your best bet will be to focus slowly and carefully, finding a section of the scene where you can most easily tell if it's in focus (text on a sign), focus past, and then back on to the subject.
Really, cameras are not meant to be manual focus? That's news to me, it seem every camera Nikon comes out with is manual focus and the only way auto focus work is if you have a lens with a auto focus motor in it.
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