Nikon D7000: Camera Road Test With Chase Jarvis

If you had been thinking about getting a Nikon D7000 or even have one already, and questioned how good of a camera did Nikon build. In this video Chase Jarvis "road test" this 10 megapixel camera and also shows off the amazing 1080HD video shot with it.

Enjoy!

The problem most videographers have with the D7000 is the lack of different framerates. Not everyone wants/needs to shoot in 24p.

Stealthy Ninja wrote: The problem most videographers have with the D7000 is the lack of different framerates. Not everyone wants/needs to shoot in 24p.

Are you able to shoot at different speeds with other cameras?

Jeffster wrote:

Stealthy Ninja wrote: The problem most videographers have with the D7000 is the lack of different framerates. Not everyone wants/needs to shoot in 24p.

Are you able to shoot at different speeds with other cameras?

Short answer: Yes, the Canon ones do and the D5100 does (albeit at a lower bit-rate of 18mbps).

Smart-ass answer:
With traditional film cameras a frame came along every 24th of a second (24 frames a second, well it's actually 23.98). Then you'd adjust how much light is coming on the frame by adjusting the degrees on an adjustable shutter. How much light came in depends on the degrees the shutter is. It's actually a circle so a 180º shutter is half a circle. Make sense? Probably not, but here's an animation I found:

You can see that the speed the frame advances is constant. But by adjusting the 1/2 circle for other circle degrees, the amount of light coming through each time can be adjusted.

So if the shutter moves along once every 1/24 second, then 180º would be half that speed. So light would be exposed on there for 1/48 second every frame.

Obviously the bigger the open degrees the more light would get in and the narrower the less light gets in (so you can imagine how important light meters would be back in those days).

Having a larger angle gives you essentially gives you more motion blur as the light stays on the screen for a longer time.

You should never shoot shoot (unless you;re being artistic) with greater than a 180º shutter (1/48 or lower if you're talking about 24p) as this will make your image smeared.

You can shoot at a faster rate (90º for example, which gives you 1/96) if there's a lot of action in the shot (to keep the motion from blurring too much).

So anyway... back to fps.

24 (or really 23.98) is usually used to imitate film because that's what the framerate of film is. However, on TV it's different. In the US (NTSC) it's 30fps and in PAL countries (UK, EUROPE, MOST OF ASIA and Australia) it's 25fps. Also there's 60i and 50i which is 2 frames interlaced into one. It's double the framerate, but each time the camera only takes the odd or even lines on the image and then puts them together so it looks like 25fps or 30fps. This makes the motion look smoother, but can look weird on some TVs and computer screens.

So anyway, as you can see, a professional needs more than just 24p unless he/she is only trying to make something to be transferred to film OR they just like the 24p look.

The thing to take away from this is: When using a DSLR camera, always try and have your shutter speed at double the fps: ie 24fps = 1/48 shutter, 25fps = 1/50 shutter, 30fps = 1/60 shutter. You can go faster, but try to never go slower.