dodging and burning
Photobod might be able to add to this - he is a masterburner and dodger. Speaking of oopsies my spell checker want to correct me and write masterbator ...
“Amateurs worry about equipment, professionals worry about money, masters worry about light, I just make pictures… ” ~ Vernon Trent
chasrich wrote: I find baby steps work best... Make the tool almost transparent (less opacity and lowered density) and give it a lot of fuzz (hardness set low). Apply in multiple steps rather than shooting for one big slash. If you go too far use the Ctrl+Z to remove any oopsies.
Photobod might be able to add to this - he is a masterburner and dodger. Speaking of oopsies my spell checker want to correct me and write masterbator ...
Thanks for the compliment there Charles, baby steps is the best advice, most people jump in without checking there settings, I use cs5 so the burn and dodge tools are top notch compared to earlier versions, take your time, zoom in to areas so you can see what you are working on, I work on the midtones mostly but you can work on the highlights or the shadows, I have a soft brush and my exposure is set to about 33% rarely change that, keep changing the size of your brush so that it is large or small enough to just work on the area you are concentrating on as charles says Ctrl+Z to go back steps, although on mine and it may be the cs 5 I have to do Ctrl and Alt +Z.
The more you do it the better you will become, its brilliant for making eyes really pop, thats my favourite technique.
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"A good photograph is one that communicate a fact, touches the heart, leaves the viewer a changed person for having seen it. It is, in a word, effective." - Irving Penn
Scotty wrote:
Stealthy Ninja wrote: Both skills learnt in ninja school
agreed.
You can't watch me, I'm watching you.
chasrich wrote: I find baby steps work best... Make the tool almost transparent (less opacity and lowered density) and give it a lot of fuzz (hardness set low). Apply in multiple steps rather than shooting for one big slash.
These days I normally use the exposure and brightness adjustment brushes in ACR set to 100 feather and rarely outside te range of -25 to +25. If I need more burn or dodge I use additional passes. This way the borders get broken up, and blend better.
The last time I tried the official dodge and burn tools in Photoshop was CS2, and they weren't too hot. If I'm in PS and need to burn or dodge I use the lasso tool to make a feathered selection, and use curves to lighten or darken that area.
In the darkroom we would try to add some randomness both to the tool and our hand motions. So if using a brush maybe pick an oddly shaped one, and put a little jiggle in the mouse as you paint.
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