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Shooting Macros - New Lens


9 years 11 months ago #377432 by mojo4447
 I have recently purchased a Canon 100 IS  Macro lens and having alittle trouble with it.  Seems to be a great lens but not so great of a user as of now.  I am having problems with the depth of field of the pictures.  I have used from 2.8 up to 16+ and does not seem to make much of an impact to my problem.  The shots are very crisp within a very short depth of field range, then loses it clarity quickly..      I have "stacked" a few pictures but requires a tripod, it appears.  I shoot a lot of shots with the lens extremely close to the subject matter, sometimes within a couple of inches.   Is this a problem?   Help, advise?

Thanks...   Mojo
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9 years 11 months ago #377435 by effron
This read might explain a lot......
www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/macr...ulator-magnification
Why so serious?
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9 years 11 months ago #377462 by garyrhook
You might also find the DoF calculator at dofmaster.com helpful. It will give you an idea of what to expect for a given camera, aperture, focal length and distance to subject.

Short answer: In macro work the DoF is extremely shallow. It's physics. Can't get around it.

Get a tripod, and perhaps a remote shutter release.
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9 years 11 months ago #377467 by Screamin Scott
Welcome to the world of macro.... Razor thin DOF is to be expected when shooting macro... Learn good techniques & practice a lot & you will get better. The 100mm is a good focal length for either static or active subjects. When shooting life sized images, you will be fairly close to your subjects. Tripods help with static subjects like flowers, products shooting & copy work , but limit you in the field when shooting active subjects. Most times the subjects have moved on by the time you get set up. An additional source of illumination is best when shooting active subjects. It allows you to stop down the lens for maximum DOF & has the added benefit of stopping motion, be it your own or your subjects.... I don't shoot Canon, but Nikon & no matter what system you use, it's the same issues. Try setting the lens all the way out (for life size images) & slowly rock back & forth , tripping the shutter when it appears to be in best focus. Don't worry about diffraction at the smaller apertures as you won't really notice it. Try and shoot parallel to your subject for maximum detail. A head on shot will not get much in focus. I shoot lots of insects & small flower macro images... Learn to breath properly too. Brace yourself as best as possible.   Most of the macro on my Flickr stream are done with an older 105mm manual focus macro lens & a matching ring/point light from the mid 1980's...
Scott Ditzel Photography

www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/
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