ISO settings in your camera for every day shooting?

12 years 9 months ago #117484 by Rob pix4u2
1/3 stop increments below 200

Remember to engage brain before putting mouth in gear
Rob Huelsman Sr.
My Facebook www.facebook.com/ImaginACTIONPhotography

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12 years 9 months ago #117485 by steveheap

I have noticed that if I go far enough down with my ISO I end up in L 0.3, then L 0.7 then L 1.0 . Which would be equal to ISO 100?


I'm not 100% sure which camera you have, but it sounds to me like there would be a step before you see L0.3, which would probably be ISO100. I think these numbers are under-exposing by 1/3 stop, 2/3 stop and then a full stop - ie they are part of exposure compensation rather than a change in the ISO. I know that Canon has some special menu setting to go to 50 ISO (ie it is not normally available from the buttons on the camera) and I had always assumed that it was some way of under (or is it over) exposing and then processing the file to give you a normal image as though the ISO had really been set for 50.

Steve

My Stock Photo Blog
www.backyardsilver.com

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12 years 9 months ago #117487 by Henry Peach

Scott Grant wrote: OH and why do they change the ISO name from a number to "L 0.3" ??


"L" for low. They usually do it on the "high" end too. This shows it's a processing effect, a push or a pull , rather than actually changing the sensitivity of the camera.
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12 years 9 months ago #117489 by Scott Grant
I see, well if you ask me. Why change the pattern, simplify things and keep the numbers rather than getting all fancy with letters and fractions. :rofl: :rofl: BTW what does "L" mean?


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12 years 9 months ago #117734 by Joves

Scott Grant wrote: I see, well if you ask me. Why change the pattern, simplify things and keep the numbers rather than getting all fancy with letters and fractions. :rofl: :rofl: BTW what does "L" mean?

Well it is because they are not an actual ISO value but a simulated ISO value outside of the sensors true operating parameters. Dont use either the High or Low on your camera the images are greaty defraded. It is like the difference between the Optical Zoom and the Electronic Zoom on P&S cameras, if you go past the Optical you get photos with jagged edges. Same goes for the HiLo BS.


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12 years 9 months ago - 12 years 9 months ago #117740 by Henry Peach

Scott Grant wrote: I see, well if you ask me. Why change the pattern, simplify things and keep the numbers rather than getting all fancy with letters and fractions. :rofl: :rofl: BTW what does "L" mean?


L for low.

Because it's not really a change in ISO. It's a change in processing. There are different paths to the same destination, but it's still good to remember what path you are on.

Stops are how photographers measure exposure and light. 1/3rd stop is a slight change, but often noticeable to the human eye.
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12 years 9 months ago #117824 by Alex
Mines where I need it for the shot. During day hours where big 'ol sunshine is out my ISO is at 200, as it get's dark ISO is adjusted as needed.

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Photo Comments
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12 years 9 months ago #117828 by Stealthy Ninja
I have a D3s so I keep mine about 800iso... unless I'm outside during the day, then it's 200 or 400.
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12 years 9 months ago #117833 by cod
Always the smallest ISO that can still get the shot, to minimize noise. Ideally that's the camera's lowest ISO (200 on mine). I only go higher if it is necessary to get the shot I want, e.g. in low light or for faster shutter speeds than the lowest ISO allows.

Chris O'Donoghue
Winnipeg, Canada
codonoghue.prosite.com

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12 years 9 months ago - 12 years 9 months ago #117934 by Henry Peach
I'm always surprised when people mention noise being an issue from DSLRs. I make very large prints from 4 digit ISO shots, and while I can see some noise when pixel peeping, I would call the prints effectively noise-less. I've got some hanging next to 20"x prints from 6x6 and 6x7 Tmax 100, and they make the medium format film prints look gritty.
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12 years 9 months ago #118058 by cod

Henry Peach wrote: I'm always surprised when people mention noise being an issue from DSLRs. I make very large prints from 4 digit ISO shots, and while I can see some noise when pixel peeping, I would call the prints effectively noise-less. I've got some hanging next to 20"x prints from 6x6 and 6x7 Tmax 100, and they make the medium format film prints look gritty.


I see a very noticeable difference in noise between ISO 200 and 1600 on my D300S. Now, I shoot RAW, so that's before processing. I can usually eliminate the noise with software but its usually at the cost of some loss in sharpness/detail. ISO 1600 shots are perfectly acceptable once well processed and I don't hesitatte to use it when necessary. All else being equal, though, I believe the lower ISOs will produce better images. Whether or not that difference is noticeable under the specific viewing conditions is another question. I certainly agree with Henry that one can produce good quality large prints even at higher ISO values.

Chris O'Donoghue
Winnipeg, Canada
codonoghue.prosite.com

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12 years 9 months ago #118258 by Joves
Noise doesnt bother me much, I consider it the same as grain in the old days when you shot high ISO/ ASA films. This is especially true since the noise on the newer cameras is luminance over chroamatic noise.


The following user(s) said Thank You: McBeth Photography
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12 years 7 months ago #146171 by KCook
For daylight work with a modern DSLR running a high ISO doesn't hurt much at all. I've put up some samples -

Canon 50D ISO trial

Kelly

Canon 50D, Olympus PL2
kellycook.zenfolio.com/

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12 years 7 months ago #146375 by robbie
Wildlife iso 400 at f8,ir landscapes iso 100-200 at f10-f14 since I shoot clouds,bracketing is on starting at -1ec.Exposures are excellent most of the time..no blown highlights.


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12 years 7 months ago #146376 by MLKstudios
f/10 and be there!

:)

Matthew L Kees
MLK Studios Photography School
www.MLKstudios.com
[email protected]
"Every artist, was once an amateur"

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