problems with ambient light

12 years 8 months ago #125250 by g1na3
I'm learning my camera and went out to shoot a field of flowers at about 1:00pm. The light was very bright and I was trying to use different settings like aperture priority. The ambient light was so bright it was impossible to see the LCD screen. So, I was shooting blind because I couldn't see any readings. Out of 75 frames the only save ables were a few that were shot on auto; everything else was blown out. This has happened more than once. Should I get the Delkin pop-up shade? What do you guys do in this situation?


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12 years 8 months ago #125261 by Bobby
Used to have Delkin - definitely a waste of $ from my end.
Try not to shoot into the sun. Harsh sun at that time of day, which will cause the blown out pictures. Use a hood of sorts to view the LCD/Viewfinder, and last but not least, if not sure, shoot in RAW.


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12 years 8 months ago #125268 by g1na3
Thanks for the warning about the Delkin. The flowers just look so beautiful it was hard not to shoot them. Plus I thought one needs light on their subject to capture the image?


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12 years 8 months ago #125297 by MLKstudios
You might want something like this:

www.filmtools.com/lcdvf.html

:)

Matthew L Kees
MLK Studios Photography School
www.MLKstudios.com
[email protected]
"Every artist, was once an amateur"

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12 years 8 months ago #125307 by g1na3

MLKstudios wrote: You might want something like this:

www.filmtools.com/lcdvf.html

:)


Thanks but any suggestions on how to get the correct exposure, seeing that is my main concern.


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12 years 8 months ago #125330 by Henry Peach
Even if the photo isn't clear on the LCD, you should be able to discern the histogram. You may have to shade it with your hand or use one of the suggested sun shade gizmos. Learn to read the histogram. www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms1.htm
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12 years 8 months ago - 12 years 8 months ago #125340 by MLKstudios
I totally agree with HP, that the histogram is the best tool for digital exposures. It's very precise and allows you to "fine tune" an exposure AFTER you take a pic. In other words, it works well when you are shooting the same place and light over and over.

But, you also need a starting point for an exposure. That's when the meter is valuable.

On another thread, I explained how to use the exposure meter (your light meter) in three steps:

1. Set the ISO (low for bright sun, and higher for low light).
2. Adjust the aperture (f/stop) to a low number.
3. Using the meter, adjust the shutter speed till you get a centered indication (a line in the middle).

If the shutter speed is below 1/60 (or so), increase the ISO and start over.

There are many factors to getting a perfect exposure, and you will learn to fine tune them after viewing a few thousand images. For now you just want to get a decent exposure (f/stop and shutter speed combo) that gets you a viewable image.

Other factors include what metering mode you are in (use Center Weighted for now), what lens you have attached (a prime lets you shoot available light), using a flash (for real low light) and learning to SEE a scene like a photographer does.

What first appears bright to us, can be very low light to a camera.

Matthew :)

PS this may not make total sense yet, but will get you thinking about how exposure works:

www.photographytalk.com/photography-arti...tipusing-a-gray-card

Matthew L Kees
MLK Studios Photography School
www.MLKstudios.com
[email protected]
"Every artist, was once an amateur"

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