Joves wrote:
I do not always print from Jpeg as others have stated. Sometimes I actually print from TIFF, a file format that you cannot create from a Jpeg image. Well you can but it would be a sorry TIFF file to print from.Leilanee wrote:
Lightpuller wrote: The problem with that is that people print from jpegs not raw files. So your arguments don't make a lot of sense. Why would i need all that extra stuff that can't be used in a final print. Also, a camera should know the best way to process the information, not some program created by people who don't even work for the camera companies.
Like Leilanee said, the results of raw are not as good as jpeg. Seems to me my friend is way off base.
Thank you! I am way smarter than Photoshop gives me credit for.
First I agree that you can get great images in the Jpeg format, but you cannot really add information to that Jpeg, and a Jpeg will never have the same latitude in adjustment that a RAW file has ever. So if you screw a Jpeg image too much when shooting, and you process it to try and make it right, it will look like an over processed image, or under processed, depending on which way you had to settle for. As where with a RAW image I have all of the data of the image to process, and can get a better photo from a screwed one, this too is within reason, some images are just too screwed to fix.
I personally shoot RAW+Jpeg for the very reason that if I screw the image up more than a few adjustments will fix, I can fall back on the RAW. With Jpegs you have to intentionally make your adjustments before you shoot, to get what you may want in an image. I call it pre-processing an image, but even with that you can sometimes get it to wrong to fix it as a Jpeg. You should try it sometime shooting in dual format, and when you run across one that no matter what you do to that Jpeg it never looks quite right, then process the RAW and see how much more you can get out of it. Or actually how much better you can correct it.
To me it sounds like you all have been reading too much Ken Rockwell.
Lightpuller wrote: I've never heard of a Tiff file, what is that?
Lightpuller wrote: Can cameras shoot in Tiff?
Lightpuller wrote: Do I need to buy photoshop CS6 to use raw?
jmk-nbsc wrote:
Now Leilanee is a really good photographer, so I was surprised to see her comment about her recent Raw photos.
hghlndr6 wrote:
Lightpuller wrote: I've never heard of a Tiff file, what is that?
Here's more than you ever wanted to know about TIFF:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagged_Image_File_Format
Lightpuller wrote: Can cameras shoot in Tiff?
No, cameras shoot in RAW. Some can also output RAW as well as JPEG.
Lightpuller wrote: Do I need to buy photoshop CS6 to use raw?
No. There are a number of other software products that can process RAW. Adobe Lightroom is a popular choice. An older version of PS will also do the trick. Even Photoshop Elements can handle RAW files. And, depending on what camera you have, the manufacturer's software might process RAW. I know Nikon's software will do it.
Joves wrote:
hghlndr6 wrote:
Lightpuller wrote: I've never heard of a Tiff file, what is that?
Here's more than you ever wanted to know about TIFF:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagged_Image_File_Format
Lightpuller wrote: Can cameras shoot in Tiff?
No, cameras shoot in RAW. Some can also output RAW as well as JPEG.
Lightpuller wrote: Do I need to buy photoshop CS6 to use raw?
No. There are a number of other software products that can process RAW. Adobe Lightroom is a popular choice. An older version of PS will also do the trick. Even Photoshop Elements can handle RAW files. And, depending on what camera you have, the manufacturer's software might process RAW. I know Nikon's software will do it.
What did Nikon get rid of the Tiff format in the format options. My D300 will shoot Tiff, I just do not do that because quite frankly the extra file size does not give you as much latitude in processing as NEF. Now what I would like to see is the option to shoot in DNG. Or what I would like to see is a universal standard RAW format developed and used. This would make things so much better for the end user, or we the customers.
Lightpuller wrote:
Joves wrote:
I do not always print from Jpeg as others have stated. Sometimes I actually print from TIFF, a file format that you cannot create from a Jpeg image. Well you can but it would be a sorry TIFF file to print from.Leilanee wrote:
Lightpuller wrote: The problem with that is that people print from jpegs not raw files. So your arguments don't make a lot of sense. Why would i need all that extra stuff that can't be used in a final print. Also, a camera should know the best way to process the information, not some program created by people who don't even work for the camera companies.
Like Leilanee said, the results of raw are not as good as jpeg. Seems to me my friend is way off base.
Thank you! I am way smarter than Photoshop gives me credit for.
First I agree that you can get great images in the Jpeg format, but you cannot really add information to that Jpeg, and a Jpeg will never have the same latitude in adjustment that a RAW file has ever. So if you screw a Jpeg image too much when shooting, and you process it to try and make it right, it will look like an over processed image, or under processed, depending on which way you had to settle for. As where with a RAW image I have all of the data of the image to process, and can get a better photo from a screwed one, this too is within reason, some images are just too screwed to fix.
I personally shoot RAW+Jpeg for the very reason that if I screw the image up more than a few adjustments will fix, I can fall back on the RAW. With Jpegs you have to intentionally make your adjustments before you shoot, to get what you may want in an image. I call it pre-processing an image, but even with that you can sometimes get it to wrong to fix it as a Jpeg. You should try it sometime shooting in dual format, and when you run across one that no matter what you do to that Jpeg it never looks quite right, then process the RAW and see how much more you can get out of it. Or actually how much better you can correct it.
To me it sounds like you all have been reading too much Ken Rockwell.
I went on Ken Rockwell's site and he said he has a left handed camera with elephant penis skin custom grip. I'm not sure I can trust him. Some of what he says is very good though. I agree with his views on jpeg.
I've never heard of a Tiff file, what is that? Can cameras shoot in Tiff? Do I need to buy photoshop CS6 to use raw?
hghlndr6 wrote:
Joves wrote:
hghlndr6 wrote:
Lightpuller wrote: I've never heard of a Tiff file, what is that?
Here's more than you ever wanted to know about TIFF:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagged_Image_File_Format
Lightpuller wrote: Can cameras shoot in Tiff?
No, cameras shoot in RAW. Some can also output RAW as well as JPEG.
Lightpuller wrote: Do I need to buy photoshop CS6 to use raw?
No. There are a number of other software products that can process RAW. Adobe Lightroom is a popular choice. An older version of PS will also do the trick. Even Photoshop Elements can handle RAW files. And, depending on what camera you have, the manufacturer's software might process RAW. I know Nikon's software will do it.
What did Nikon get rid of the Tiff format in the format options. My D300 will shoot Tiff, I just do not do that because quite frankly the extra file size does not give you as much latitude in processing as NEF. Now what I would like to see is the option to shoot in DNG. Or what I would like to see is a universal standard RAW format developed and used. This would make things so much better for the end user, or we the customers.
My mistake. Your D300, the D700 and D800 will output TIFF. My D600 will not.
Scotty wrote:
Lightpuller wrote:
Joves wrote:
I do not always print from Jpeg as others have stated. Sometimes I actually print from TIFF, a file format that you cannot create from a Jpeg image. Well you can but it would be a sorry TIFF file to print from.Leilanee wrote:
Lightpuller wrote: The problem with that is that people print from jpegs not raw files. So your arguments don't make a lot of sense. Why would i need all that extra stuff that can't be used in a final print. Also, a camera should know the best way to process the information, not some program created by people who don't even work for the camera companies.
Like Leilanee said, the results of raw are not as good as jpeg. Seems to me my friend is way off base.
Thank you! I am way smarter than Photoshop gives me credit for.
First I agree that you can get great images in the Jpeg format, but you cannot really add information to that Jpeg, and a Jpeg will never have the same latitude in adjustment that a RAW file has ever. So if you screw a Jpeg image too much when shooting, and you process it to try and make it right, it will look like an over processed image, or under processed, depending on which way you had to settle for. As where with a RAW image I have all of the data of the image to process, and can get a better photo from a screwed one, this too is within reason, some images are just too screwed to fix.
I personally shoot RAW+Jpeg for the very reason that if I screw the image up more than a few adjustments will fix, I can fall back on the RAW. With Jpegs you have to intentionally make your adjustments before you shoot, to get what you may want in an image. I call it pre-processing an image, but even with that you can sometimes get it to wrong to fix it as a Jpeg. You should try it sometime shooting in dual format, and when you run across one that no matter what you do to that Jpeg it never looks quite right, then process the RAW and see how much more you can get out of it. Or actually how much better you can correct it.
To me it sounds like you all have been reading too much Ken Rockwell.
I went on Ken Rockwell's site and he said he has a left handed camera with elephant penis skin custom grip. I'm not sure I can trust him. Some of what he says is very good though. I agree with his views on jpeg.
I've never heard of a Tiff file, what is that? Can cameras shoot in Tiff? Do I need to buy photoshop CS6 to use raw?
lol please don't tell me that actually says that on his site.
icepics wrote: You've said Tess that you just got this lens and I think that in both versions of the portrait the eyes/face are a bit soft; some of the hair and clothing looks sharper than the face. I'm not sure the lens focused where it needed to be.
You've mentioned on here recently how the camera is setting the shutter too slow, or not focusing exactly where you want it etc. (my digital camera tends to do that too when left to its own devices, I can often hear the shutter's too slow and I have to reset it). I think learning manual settings can provide more control over the camera and how fast or slow the shutter speed is, how small or large the aperture is, where exactly the camera's focused, etc.
I think your composition skills are excellent and your photos show a great deal of creativity. It sounds like you know exactly what you need the camera to do; it would take practice but using manual settings might enable you to use the camera to take photos the way you want.
I also deem that I need a lot more time and practice to get used to this lens, as it's got an enormous range and I'm used to only one focal length (50 mm)
AI Servo is a setting that generally works at a slower pace because the camera tries to keep continued focus on a moving subject. I wanted more frames than AI Servo would allow, so I sacrificed image quality there, knowing very well what was going on.Working with AI Servo made the shutter a bit too slow for my liking
Never had this problem with my other lenses, and though I do shoot ONLY in Manual mode, I use auto focus because my eyesight and judgement using the viewfinder are usually worse than the camera's when getting a properly focused image.even though I've been very particular with the points I tell the lens to focus on (I do autofocus, but I manually choose my focus points), I was quite disappointed to see that a lot of my photos from today were more focused on the background than my model
I am very familiar with aperture, and I manipulate it all the time.I usually have my aperture at around 2.5-3.0 for my 50 mm lens, and the lowest f-stop at 50 mm on this lens is 5.0 (bye bye bokeh/pretty background blur ), and because I prefer to keep the aperture at its lowest possible value (for this lens, at least), I had to pay attention to my settings a lot more than I'm used to because the lowest aperture changes for each focal length, and I was certainly taking advantage of my new opportunity to zoom and take photos at various focal lengths. This, again, will simply take some adjusting, since I've learned to be a lazy photographer and go on autopilot (most of the time) once I've found my magic settings, using the single focal length and all.
I do intend to go back to the one I know how to use.Hopefully in the near future I'll be able to get some more crisp, cleaner looking images with it, however I will probably be going back to my old 50 mm from time to time, because I love that lens to death.
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