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long exposure RAW shots


13 years 3 months ago #14166 by david-hrg
I've been experimenting shooting RAW with long exposures. When I shoot for 30 secs, 60 secs, etc. after the shutter has closed I've noticed the camera takes about the same amount of time again to reset, write to the card, whatever.

I want to start doing some night sky stuff and I'm worried that if i go to 30 minutes for star trails that I'll actually be about an hour all together before i can start a second shot.

Is this delay normal? Is is because I'm in RAW. Would a *.jpg format take the same amount of time?
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13 years 3 months ago #15762 by donleavy
One reason for the long timing could be if you have long exposure noise reduction on. If you do, that's why it takes so long. You should turn the noise reduction off and take care of it in post processing.
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13 years 3 months ago #15764 by webbman
The write speed of your memory card can affect the length of time it takes as well. You should try to get the fastest card you can afford.
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13 years 3 months ago #15783 by Solstar
As Don suggests it's probably the in-camera noise reduction doing its thing. Try turning it off and using your computer's much more powerful processor do the work. Plus then you won't have to wait to start your next shot.
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13 years 3 months ago #21544 by david-hrg
Thanks for the input. As a followup questions, may I ask if you all shoot RAW primarily all the time. If not, is it because of the slow timing or something else?
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13 years 3 months ago #21548 by masterman
Always RAW. RAW gives you beter control of exposure and white balance. But with your astrophotography, maybe exposure and white balance aren't as much of a factor. I'm not sure - I haven't experimented with that. Of course it's important, but since you're basically talking about white dots on a black background, it's not as important as - say - full color portrait photography. Does that make any sense?

Just learn to shoot RAW is my advice. I think you'll find you like it in the long run.
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13 years 3 months ago #21552 by Baydream
RAW is better in most instances. JPEG seems to be better for action shots and other times when you needs multiple rapid shots. Since the sky is black and white, I have used JPEG and gotten good results. The only adjustment I have to sometimes make is bumping contrast when the sky (background) gets a bit light.



This was a 20 sec exposure with a 50mm f/1.8 wide open to catch a meteor shower. My first attempt at that. I was able to shoot repeatedly since I never knew when they would appear. Next year, I will try longer exposures at a higher fstop. I problem then might be a meteor showing as a streak end-to-end. It will be a learning experience.
Shoot, learn and share. It will make you a better photographer.
fineartamerica.com/profiles/john-g-schickler.html?tab=artwork
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13 years 3 months ago #21556 by Scotty

david-hrg wrote: Thanks for the input. As a followup questions, may I ask if you all shoot RAW primarily all the time. If not, is it because of the slow timing or something else?


I shoot RAW 100 percent of the time. The other 0 percent of the time, i'm usually not using my camera.

As everyone said, you probably have the long exposure in camera noise removal active.
When the last candle has been blown out
and the last glass of champagne has been drunk
All that you are left with are the memories and the images-David Cooke.
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13 years 3 months ago #21662 by richiepics

donleavy wrote: One reason for the long timing could be if you have long exposure noise reduction on. If you do, that's why it takes so long. You should turn the noise reduction off and take care of it in post processing.


That is what I was going to say. Also I hope that was the only problem, otherwise there could be a serious problem that can not be fixed by turning something.
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13 years 3 months ago #24840 by bookman
True, but the time difference in writing a single raw file will be negligible unless you're using a really, really slow card.
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13 years 3 months ago #24844 by t.thomas
I agree about the long exposure noise reduction. I get better results if I disable it and do it myself - several dark frames betwen 10 and 20. Use Iris or maybe DSS

Iris - www.astrosurf.com/bull/us/iris/iris.htm
DSS - deepskystacker.free.fr/
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