How to photograph an arrow mid flight?

2 years 6 months ago #726465 by Finn
I want to photograph an arrow right before it hits it's target.  Any thoughts I'd be able to time this just right?  


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2 years 6 months ago #726466 by Nikon Shooter
If you understand that there is no real difference between an
arrow in your hand and one flying, then go for the simple way:
hang the arrow with fishing line and position to your liking.

Very minimal of editing will do the final touch.

Light is free… capturing it is not!
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2 years 6 months ago #726467 by Nikon Shooter
ADDENDUM

Sure, the arrow is shot on white paper so to get the shadow
as well… can be use on the target, Have a good time! :P

Light is free… capturing it is not!
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2 years 6 months ago #726491 by TCav
If you REALLY want to capture an arrow mid-flight, use a powerful flash on full power. The a powerful flash on full power will create a very short duration flash (as quick as 1/80,000 second) which will capture the arrow mid-flight. Using a fast shutter speed (1/8000 second or so) just won't cut it.

Timing, however, can be a problem.


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2 years 6 months ago #726493 by Nikon Shooter

TCav wrote: If you REALLY want to capture an arrow mid-flight, use a powerful flash on full power. The a powerful flash on full power will create a very short duration flash (as quick as 1/80,000 second) which will capture the arrow mid-flight. Using a fast shutter speed (1/8000 second or so) just won't cut it.


Not really, it's the other way around…
the weaker the flash output, the shorter its duration.

Light is free… capturing it is not!
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2 years 6 months ago #726494 by Nikon Shooter
Addendum 2

Shooting, as suggested, a static arrow, one can eventually
play with the apparent blur in a pixel editor.

Light is free… capturing it is not!
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2 years 6 months ago #726495 by TCav

Nikon Shooter wrote: the weaker the flash output, the shorter its duration.


The intent is to project as may photons as possible in as short a time as possible.

Using a weaker setting would require a longer duration flash in order to project the same number of photons as a stronger setting.

(The shutter speed is irrelevant, since the flash will freeze the motion, not the shutter.)


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2 years 6 months ago #726503 by Ozzie_Traveller
G'day TCav

Sorry mate - NS has got it the correct way about
A flash starts off at 100% then 50% then 25% then ... and so on and the light reduction also comes about via a shortened exposure time. Thus full flash can be 1/1000sec with 50% at 1/2000 then 1/4000 then 1/8000 ~ sort of thing

Phil

Phil from the great land Downunder
www.flickr.com/photos/ozzie_traveller/sets/

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2 years 6 months ago #726514 by TCav
I stand corrected.

I apologize.


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2 years 6 months ago #726517 by Nikon Shooter

TCav wrote: I stand corrected. I apologize.


No need to, body… sometimes things get tricky. And then there
is HSS on top of that!

Light is free… capturing it is not!
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2 years 6 months ago #726608 by Sanford
Just use a trigger with motion sensor that triggers shutter 


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2 years 5 months ago #726677 by Nikon Shooter

Sanford wrote: Just use a trigger with motion sensor that triggers shutter 


That implies that the trajectory is perfectly controlled and the speed
absolutely constant at all shots… too many variables in my book.

Light is free… capturing it is not!
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2 years 5 months ago #726751 by Don Granger
Get one of those  Miops Camera Triggers


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2 years 5 months ago #726753 by Nikon Shooter

Don Granger wrote: Get one of those  Miops Camera Triggers


I got that, inappropriate for the task.

Light is free… capturing it is not!
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2 years 5 months ago #726759 by TCav
My guess, backed by much research, is that catching the perfect composition of a fast moving object is rare. The advantage you have with your situation is that you can try again until you get what you want, a luxury that the typical sports/action/wildlife photographer doesn't have. I suggest that you keep trying with Continuous Shooting as fast as your flash can handle (with a tripod and remote shutter release), until you get what you want.


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