How to photograph an arrow mid flight?

1 month 2 weeks ago #726465 by Finn
I want to photograph an arrow right before it hits it's target.  Any thoughts I'd be able to time this just right?  


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1 month 2 weeks ago #726466 by Nikon Shooter
If you understand that there is no real difference between an
arrow in your hand and one flying, then go for the simple way:
hang the arrow with fishing line and position to your liking.

Very minimal of editing will do the final touch.

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1 month 2 weeks ago #726467 by Nikon Shooter
ADDENDUM

Sure, the arrow is shot on white paper so to get the shadow
as well… can be use on the target, Have a good time! :P

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1 month 2 weeks ago #726491 by TCav
If you REALLY want to capture an arrow mid-flight, use a powerful flash on full power. The a powerful flash on full power will create a very short duration flash (as quick as 1/80,000 second) which will capture the arrow mid-flight. Using a fast shutter speed (1/8000 second or so) just won't cut it.

Timing, however, can be a problem.


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1 month 2 weeks ago #726493 by Nikon Shooter

TCav wrote: If you REALLY want to capture an arrow mid-flight, use a powerful flash on full power. The a powerful flash on full power will create a very short duration flash (as quick as 1/80,000 second) which will capture the arrow mid-flight. Using a fast shutter speed (1/8000 second or so) just won't cut it.


Not really, it's the other way around…
the weaker the flash output, the shorter its duration.

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1 month 2 weeks ago #726494 by Nikon Shooter
Addendum 2

Shooting, as suggested, a static arrow, one can eventually
play with the apparent blur in a pixel editor.

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1 month 2 weeks ago #726495 by TCav

Nikon Shooter wrote: the weaker the flash output, the shorter its duration.


The intent is to project as may photons as possible in as short a time as possible.

Using a weaker setting would require a longer duration flash in order to project the same number of photons as a stronger setting.

(The shutter speed is irrelevant, since the flash will freeze the motion, not the shutter.)


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1 month 2 weeks ago #726503 by Ozzie_Traveller
G'day TCav

Sorry mate - NS has got it the correct way about
A flash starts off at 100% then 50% then 25% then ... and so on and the light reduction also comes about via a shortened exposure time. Thus full flash can be 1/1000sec with 50% at 1/2000 then 1/4000 then 1/8000 ~ sort of thing

Phil


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1 month 2 weeks ago #726514 by TCav
I stand corrected.

I apologize.


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1 month 2 weeks ago #726517 by Nikon Shooter

TCav wrote: I stand corrected. I apologize.


No need to, body… sometimes things get tricky. And then there
is HSS on top of that!

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1 month 1 week ago #726608 by Sanford
Just use a trigger with motion sensor that triggers shutter 


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1 month 1 week ago #726677 by Nikon Shooter

Sanford wrote: Just use a trigger with motion sensor that triggers shutter 


That implies that the trajectory is perfectly controlled and the speed
absolutely constant at all shots… too many variables in my book.

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1 month 1 week ago #726751 by Don Granger
Get one of those  Miops Camera Triggers


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1 month 1 week ago #726753 by Nikon Shooter

Don Granger wrote: Get one of those  Miops Camera Triggers


I got that, inappropriate for the task.

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1 month 1 week ago #726759 by TCav
My guess, backed by much research, is that catching the perfect composition of a fast moving object is rare. The advantage you have with your situation is that you can try again until you get what you want, a luxury that the typical sports/action/wildlife photographer doesn't have. I suggest that you keep trying with Continuous Shooting as fast as your flash can handle (with a tripod and remote shutter release), until you get what you want.


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